Thomas Van Straaten’s favorite Rolex Datejust is the steel reference 1601. His archetypal configuration pairs a white-gold fluted bezel with a Cyclops date magnifier, Jubilee bracelet and pie-pan dial. That is his personal preference, not a specification shared by every 1601.
Why the Datejust 1601 is his choice
Van Straaten says he values the Datejust as a simple, versatile everyday watch. His choice is informed by years spent specializing in vintage Datejusts as a dealer at Amsterdam Watch Company and by writing The Vintage Rolex Datejust Buyer’s & Collector’s Guide. He says the only Datejust to join his own collection was a 1601—the watch featured on his book cover.
In his July 30, 2025 Fratello article, he put it plainly: “My Datejust of choice is the steel reference 1601.” Read his account at Fratello.
What makes his 1601 configuration distinctive
Van Straaten’s preferred combination brings together four recognizable design details:
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#1 Best Overall
- Pre-Loved Condition: Excellent; Light scratching to hardware
- Made in Switzerland
- Oyster clasp closure
- Signature upon delivery required
- White-gold fluted bezel: the ridged bezel frames the dial.
- Cyclops: the magnifier over the date is part of the familiar Datejust look he favors.
- Jubilee bracelet: the multi-link bracelet completes his archetypal configuration.
- Pie-pan dial: its sloped outer edge gives the dial a sense of depth.
The dial is especially important to his preference. He finds the pie-pan shape more visually deep than the flatter dials he associates with later five-digit references. That is an aesthetic judgment, not an objective ranking of Datejust generations. Reference 1601 examples can differ in parts and configuration; his description should not be taken as a checklist that every example must match.
How he describes wearing and owning a 1601
Van Straaten characterizes the 1601 as rugged, dependable and easier to service than some earlier vintage Datejusts, which he says can be more delicate and difficult to service because of parts availability. These are his ownership and collecting observations; his article does not provide independent durability tests or a survey of servicing outcomes.
Rank #2
- Compatible With: Rolex Datejust 1601, 1603, 16233, 16234 replacement stainless steel Jubilee watch band forRolex 20mm models.
- Length: 6.75 Inches With Clasp Closed Lug & Buckle Widths: 20mm / 17mm (20/17mm Strap)
- Material: This heavy-duty band is made of solid 316L stainless steel with "D" style links for durability and long-lasting performance.
- Product Features:Solid Link Construction For Long-Lasting Durability; Gold Center Links; Stainless Steel Outer Links 3 4 Removable Links With Pins
- Package Includes:1 Stainless Steel Jubilee Watch Band; 2 Spring Bars
He also likes the vintage 36 mm wearing experience and says a silver-dial version can suit both casual and formal settings. Whether that size and styling work for a particular wearer will depend on personal fit and taste.
A note on the bracelet on his example
Van Straaten points out a possible mismatch on his own watch: he interprets the clasp coronet as suggesting a US bracelet, while the no-lume dial suggests the watch was sold in Japan. He considers the bracelet period-correct but says it was most likely paired with the watch later. This is his reading of the example, not confirmed provenance.
Rank #3
- Mens Wrist Watch: Features a classic big dial and quartz movement with stable quality. High hardness coated glass mirror is wear-resistant, scratch-proof, Butterfly double buckle ensures comfortable wear
- OLEVS Mens Watches: Unique Classic Design Analog Date Calendar Display Watch Window. Easy to Read, Classic Business Style, Stylish Casual Dress Watch, Stylish Gold Indexes and Round Case, finely designed, stand the test of time, handsome and outstanding
- Business Pointer Quartz Watch: Dial diameter is 1.6 inches (41 mm). Case thickness is 0.43 inches (11 mm), steel band width is 0.79 inches (20 mm), length is 8.66 inches (22 cm). The weight of the men's watch is 4.16 ounces (118 g)
- Fashion Gold Green Man Watch: Luminous Hands/Markers and Enlarged Date Window at Three o'clock, Stylish Watch with Roman Scale Bezel, Water Resistance Up to 30M. Usually, Suitable for Swimming, But not Suitable for Deep Diving
- Night-light Function：When Using the Luminous Pointer Function for the First Time, Please illuminate The Watch Under The Light for 30 Seconds to Activate the Luminous Function. Watch Chain Can Be Adjusted in Size
What his choice does—and does not—say about the 1601
His preference makes the 1601 a useful expression of the classic Datejust formula, especially for someone drawn to the fluted bezel, Jubilee bracelet and pie-pan dial. It does not establish that the 1601 is the best Datejust for every collector, or that every watch with that reference has the same components, history or condition.
No current market price or dealer availability was verified for this article. The source reported in July 2025 that Van Straaten’s book had sold out and might still be available through Amsterdam Watch Company; that publication-time note does not establish present availability.
Quick Recap
Rank #4
- VERIFY YOUR WATCH MODEL & MEASURE THE CORRECT SIZE USING A RULER – Watch Parts Are Model and Size Specific. Please Verify Compatibility Before Purchasing.
- Compatibility: Compatible with Rolex Datejust 1601, 1603, 16233, and 16234 watches with 20mm lugs and 17mm buckle widths, designed specifically for the listed models to match case and lug dimensions.
- Size & Length: Measures 6.75 inches with the clasp closed, providing adjustable sizing through 3–4 removable links with screws, offering flexibility for wrist sizes and personalized wearing comfort.
- Design & Style: Heavy-duty two-tone Jubilee design featuring a thin sheet of 14k Real Gold (Not Plated or Gold Filled) bonded to the center links with polished stainless steel outer links for a luxurious, elegant look.
- Material: Constructed with solid stainless steel links and a thin sheet of 14k Real Gold (Not Plated or Gold Filled) on the center, ensuring durability, resistance to daily wear, and a premium, long-lasting appearance.
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