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Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches

Three one-of-a-kind SAS Polerouters marked Universal Genève’s return preview: one white-gold watch sold for CHF 71,120, while two joined the brand archive.
Estimate2–3 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Universal Genève unveiled three one-of-a-kind SAS Polerouter tribute watches in Copenhagen on November 15, 2024, marking 70 years since SAS’s first commercial transpolar flights between Copenhagen and Los Angeles. The white-gold watch later sold at Phillips for CHF 71,120; the red-gold and steel watches entered the brand’s archives. None was a regular retail release.

What are the three new Universal Genève SAS Polerouter watches?

The trio revisited the Polerouter’s connection to SAS with distinct case materials and dial treatments. Phillips reported that all three were powered by Universal Genève’s historic Microtor caliber 1-69.

Watch Materials and design Disposition
White gold Blue SAS-themed dial with historic and modern airline logos, guilloché rehaut, twisted lugs, and a hand-made white-gold bracelet by Laurent Jolliet. Offered at Phillips; sold, with proceeds benefiting CFP Arts in Geneva.
Red gold 18k red-gold case, black dial, red-gold inner bezel and hands. Placed in Universal Genève’s archive.
Stainless steel Steel case, brushed dial, and red-gold accents. Placed in Universal Genève’s archive.

Fratello reported shared dimensions of 35 mm in diameter, 45.4 mm lug-to-lug, and 9.95 mm thick, along with 50 m water resistance. Its report also gives the caliber 1-69 a 57-hour power reserve and a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. These are secondary-source specifications, rather than details confirmed in Universal Genève’s history or Phillips’ announcement.

How much did the white-gold Polerouter sell for?

Phillips’ completed lot record lists a result of CHF 71,120 in 2025, against an estimate of CHF 25,000–50,000. The auction proceeds were designated for CFP Arts in Geneva. This was the price of a unique anniversary watch, not a price guide for standard vintage Polerouters.

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Can you buy one of the three anniversary watches?

No: the white-gold example has already sold, while the red-gold and steel watches belong to Universal Genève’s archive. The trio was presented as a preview of the brand’s planned 2026 revival, not as a retail collection. Collectors interested in the design can look for vintage Polerouters, but those are separate watches and should not be confused with these one-off tributes.

Why did Universal Genève make SAS Polerouters?

The original Polerouter dates to 1954. Universal Genève’s official history credits 23-year-old Gérald Genta with developing the watch as a tribute to SAS’s Copenhagen–Los Angeles route over the North Pole, and describes the design as resistant to magnetic fields. Phillips reports that the first model was called Polarouter before the name changed to Polerouter in 1956.

The three 2024 watches marked the 70th anniversary of SAS’s first commercial transpolar flights and represented Universal Genève’s first new watches in decades. Their small number and archival disposition made the announcement a historical preview rather than a broad product launch.

Sources

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