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URWERK UR-230 Polaris: How It Works, Materials and Price

The UR-230 Polaris pairs URWERK’s wandering-hours display and turbine winding controls with a white ceramic-based composite case. Here are its specifications and reported release price.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The URWERK UR-230 Polaris is a 35-piece limited edition introduced in 2024, combining the UR-230’s wandering-hours display and turbine-based winding controls with a white ceramic-and-fiber composite case. Its release-era indicated price was CHF 150,000; that figure does not establish current availability or today’s asking price. Although it has been called a “hands-on” release, the information available here documents specifications and launch details, not firsthand wear or handling.

What is the URWERK UR-230 Polaris?

URWERK dated its official Polaris release December 11, 2024, in Geneva, describing the watch as the second installment in the UR-230 series after the UR-230 Eagle. The white case marks a visual departure from the series’ earlier darker look. URWERK’s current UR-230 collection page lists Polaris alongside the Black Star and Eagle variations.

It is a mechanical watch powered by URWERK calibre UR-7.30. Its display combines satellite-style wandering hours with a three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. The movement is listed with a 48-hour power reserve, 50 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). URWERK’s model page provides the specifications; the Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie’s overview explains the display mechanism.

How does the UR-230 Polaris tell time?

Rather than using a conventional hour hand, the Polaris carries hour cubes on a three-armed carousel. The cubes travel across a 120-degree arc. Read the current hour at the active cube where it meets the minute track; the three-dimensional retrograde hand indicates the minutes. At the hour change, the minute hand returns to its starting position as the next hour cube comes into position. This arrangement presents hours and minutes through moving components rather than a standard pair of hands.

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How do the winding controls and turbines work?

URWERK describes the turbines as serving two functions: one set is intended to attenuate the effects of external shocks, while another regulates airflow feeding the winding system. The watch also has an adjustable air brake that lets the wearer modulate winding power according to activity. The Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie says the winding regulation is adjusted with a knob on the back.

These are descriptions of the design and intended functions, not published performance measurements. The cited sources provide no quantified shock-test results or comparative winding-efficiency data. URWERK also lists a two-position winding crown and a switch that disengages the rotor, allowing manual winding instead of the rotor-driven mode.

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What is the UR-230 Polaris case made of?

URWERK describes the white case as a ceramic-based composite developed specifically for the brand. In the official release, the company says it combines a polymer base with woven ceramic sheets and fiberglass plies; machining exposes layered fibers whose appearance varies with the case’s curves and viewing angle. The official specifications call the case white ceramic with carbon inserts, and list black DLC-treated titanium and sapphire crystal glasses among the materials. Sapphire crystals have anti-reflective coating.

URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner explained the design rationale in the December 11, 2024 release: “The usual ceramics are hard, but it’s also what makes them a liability, says Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK. These materials are heat-sintered, which makes them prone to shattering in case of a strong impact. We had to go past that limitation. So we decided to develop a ceramic, by and for ourselves. Thanks to the glass fibers it contains, it doesn’t break.” This is the company’s explanation and material claim, not an independently verified guarantee that the case cannot break.

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UR-230 Polaris specifications

Specification Documented detail
Case dimensions 44.81 × 53.55 × 18.38 mm, according to URWERK
Case materials White ceramic developed for URWERK with carbon inserts; black DLC-treated titanium and sapphire crystal glasses, according to URWERK
Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective coating, according to URWERK
Water resistance Pressure-tested to 3 ATM according to URWERK; the Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie lists 30 m
Movement UR-7.30; Swiss lever escapement
Jewels and frequency 50 jewels; 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), according to URWERK
Power reserve 48 hours, according to URWERK
Indications and functions Hours, flyback minutes, mechanical brake on/off and airflow indicator, according to URWERK
Strap White rubber with Velcro fastening, as reported by the Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie and Monochrome Watches

How much does the UR-230 Polaris cost?

The Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie reports a 35-piece edition and an indicated price of CHF 150,000. Monochrome Watches’ launch coverage, published around December 2024, reports CHF 150,000 excluding tax. These are release-era figures, not a current quote. URWERK provides an inquiry path on its official model page, but the cited sources do not establish remaining stock, current retail availability or secondary-market prices.

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What “hands-on” can—and cannot—tell you here

The available details establish the display, controls, dimensions and materials, but they do not establish how the watch feels on the wrist, how it balances, how legible it is in low light or how its controls respond during use. Those judgments require documented physical inspection. The launch specifications alone are not a wearability or legibility test.

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  • [Mechanical Movement] There's no need to worry if the battery is dead because this watch has manual self-winding. Please consider that mechanical watches that require manual winding can only keep time for a short time after winding. To prevent running or inaccurate time, it is advised that you verify the time periodically and wind up the chain 15–20 times.
  • [Waterproof] Water resistant to 50m (165ft) -suitable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but not diving or snorkeling
  • [Ideal as a Gift] This beautiful retro-style watch can be worn on any occasion or given as a gift to your father, brother, partner, or boyfriend. At weddings and any holiday gatherings, it can be a really appreciated and elegant gift.
  • [Professional After-Sale Service] Please contact us if you need any additional details about our watches. We will be happy to answer and help you anytime.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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