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Chopard Returns to a Classic: The L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel

Chopard’s Lucent Steel L.U.C 1860 continues a classic 36.5 mm design with two hand-guilloché gold dial options and the automatic L.U.C 96.40-L movement.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel brings back the line’s restrained 36.5 mm proportions, but it is a continuation rather than a mechanically unchanged reissue. The current watch pairs a hand-guilloché gold dial and Lucent Steel case with the automatic L.U.C 96.40-L manufacture movement. Two dial versions are documented: Areuse Blue, reference 168860-3005, and salmon, reference 168860-3003.

What is new about the L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel?

The central idea is a familiar, compact L.U.C 1860 design updated with modern materials and Chopard’s current movement technology. Chopard says the continuation preserves the original model’s spirit while reflecting three decades of progress at its manufacture. It marks 30 years of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier; the movement lineage reaches back to the manufacture’s first movement, developed in 1996. The “1860” in the model name refers to the year Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded the brand, not the movement’s launch date, according to Chopard’s official instruction manual.

The current design is notably restrained: a 36.5 mm case, 8.2 mm thick, with a clean dial whose hand-worked guilloché supplies much of its visual character. The case is Chopard’s Lucent Steel. Chopard describes this metal as part of the updated material story, rather than presenting the watch as a simple return to an earlier specification.

Two dial versions: Areuse Blue and salmon

Reference Dial Official US displayed price Availability wording
168860-3005 Areuse Blue, hand-guilloché 18-carat white gold $29,700 on Chopard’s US page, accessed 2026 Chopard describes quantities as very limited and invites customers to register interest.
168860-3003 Salmon, hand-guilloché gold $29,700 on Chopard’s US page, accessed 2026 Chopard offers notification or contact options.

Chopard says the blue dial takes its color inspiration from the Areuse River near its manufacture in the Val-de-Travers. On the blue reference, the dial is 18-carat white gold worked by in-house artisans on a vintage guilloché lathe. The salmon version provides a warmer alternative while retaining the same overall case and movement specifications.

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The prices above are regional displayed prices, not a tax-adjusted comparison, and can change. Check the relevant Chopard page for current pricing and stock status before making a purchase decision.

Case, dimensions, and everyday practicality

  • Case diameter: 36.5 mm.
  • Thickness: 8.2 mm.
  • Water resistance: 30 m, as specified by Chopard.
  • Crystal: sapphire crystals.
  • Blue reference strap: gray calfskin with a steel pin buckle, according to Chopard’s listing.

The 30 m rating is the stated specification; it is not a basis for treating the L.U.C 1860 as a dive watch or assuming suitability for a particular water activity. For handling and care guidance, consult Chopard’s use and care instructions.

The L.U.C 96.40-L movement

Both current dial references use Chopard’s automatic L.U.C 96.40-L. At 3.3 mm thick, it uses a 22-carat gold micro-rotor and two coaxial barrels, which Chopard groups under its Twin Technology. The brand lists a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and an approximately 65-hour power reserve.

Movement specification Chopard’s stated figure or feature
Calibre L.U.C 96.40-L, automatic
Thickness 3.3 mm
Parts and jewels 176 parts; 29 jewels
Winding system 22-carat gold micro-rotor
Barrels Two coaxial barrels, described as Twin Technology
Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve Approximately 65 hours
Certifications and hallmark COSC chronometer certification and Poinçon de Genève, as listed by Chopard

These movement details and credentials are Chopard’s stated specifications; they are not independent test results for an individual watch.

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Price and availability by market

As accessed in 2026, Chopard’s US product pages each displayed $29,700 for the blue and salmon references. The blue page described quantities as very limited and provided a register-interest option; the salmon page offered notification or contact options. Availability language and displayed prices can change, so the official regional page is the best place to check current status.

For separate market context, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Japan listing reported ¥4,213,000 for the 2026 model. This is a Japanese market listing, not a conversion of Chopard’s US price. Fratello reported a launch-era price of €25,700 / US$23,700 in its 2023 coverage; that historical figure should not be confused with the current US display. The available information does not establish why the figures differ.

How the Lucent Steel version fits the L.U.C 1860 lineage

Chopard’s 2026 new-creations page describes the L.U.C 1860 as representing “the enduring legacy of Chopard Manufacture and its 30 years of watchmaking excellence.” The current Lucent Steel model connects that anniversary framing to a compact classic design, while its 96.40-L movement reflects a lineage that began with the manufacture’s first calibre developed in 1996.

Independent launch-era coverage from Fratello and Hodinkee provides additional context from the model’s introduction. Fratello’s historical launch price is distinct from the current regional price displays; neither source is a substitute for checking today’s local stock or price.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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