Vertex was the only British maker among the twelve companies associated with the British military’s Second World War wristwatch programme. Its wartime watch was the Cal. 59 W.W.W.; the later M100 and MP45 belong to a modern revival of the brand, not to wartime production. Calling Vertex “the real one” is a rhetorical nod to its British roots—not a suggestion that the other eleven makers or their watches are inauthentic.
What the “Dirty Dozen” refers to
The “Dirty Dozen” is the familiar name for twelve manufacturers associated with wristwatches made for British military service during the Second World War. Fratello describes the makers as commissioned by the Ministry of Defence to produce watches for British soldiers. The twelve names, as listed by GQ, are Buren, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex and Cyma. GQ characterizes the other named makers as Swiss brands and notes Vertex’s British heritage; it would therefore be inaccurate to describe all twelve as Swiss.
Vertex’s distinction is national heritage within this group. It does not make the other makers’ watches less genuine members of the historical story, nor does it establish that any individual watch is original, well preserved or valuable.
Vertex’s wartime watch: the Cal. 59 W.W.W.
The Vertex model associated with the wartime programme is the Cal. 59 W.W.W. Bond Lifestyle, in a 2026 article about Charlie Higson’s novel King Zero, attributes a production-and-delivery figure to Vertex: 4,652 examples delivered during preparations for D-Day. This is a figure reported second-hand by that article, not a total independently confirmed here from a wartime ledger or a primary Vertex archival record.
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- Black Dial Design: Black dial with full Arabic numerals pairs with a green fabric slip-thru strap that changes in seconds
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The designation identifies the historical model at the centre of Vertex’s place in the group. It should not be confused with the modern M100, which belongs to the revived brand. Heritage alone cannot establish the originality or condition of a particular watch; those are questions about the individual example.
How the modern Vertex brand differs
Vertex’s later models are a separate chapter. Fratello reported in 2019 that Don Cochrane, a descendant of founder Claude Lyons, relaunched the brand in 2016 and pursued a military-inspired design direction. Its coverage discusses the M100 and MP45 as modern products, not as continued wartime production.
Rank #2
- Cream Dial Design: Cream dial with full Arabic numerals pairs with an adjustable green fabric strap for a rugged, outdoor look
- Adjustable Strap: A comfortable band fits securely up to an 8-inch wrist circumference for everyday wear, day in and day out
- Indiglo Backlight: A push of the button illuminates the dial and luminous hands in the dark, day or night, rain or shine
- All-Weather Durability: A mineral glass crystal and water resistance to 50 meters keep this field watch ready for daily wear
- Built to Last: A Timex watch is designed for durability and everyday reliability; every piece reflects our commitment to quality without compromise
That article’s model details are historical reporting, not confirmation of Vertex’s current range, production status, prices or stock. For example, Fratello described the MP45 in 2019 as a 40 mm stainless-steel chronograph with a double-domed sapphire crystal, a display back and 100 metres of water resistance. It reported a Sellita SW510 MP movement, with manual or automatic versions, and time and chronograph functions. The article said each version was limited to 200 pieces, included leather, NATO and rubber straps, and cost GBP 3,480 including VAT at the time. Those specifications and that price describe the reported 2019 offering; they should not be read as current terms.
How to compare Vertex with the other makers
A useful comparison separates the historical group’s shared military-watch context from each maker’s identity and each watch’s era. The key questions are whether you are looking at an original period watch or a later interpretation, and what the evidence establishes about that particular item.
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- ⌚ MENS WATCHES ANALOG: Mens military watches made with shock-resistant stainless steel case and anti-scratch mineral window, exquisitely crafted and durable. Men's watch strap width: 22mm / 0.86 inches, stainless steel case: 42mm / 1.65 inches.
- ⌚ MILITARY WATCHES FOR MEN: This mens field watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, with a comfortable double nylon strap, will suitable for personal use and as good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday , the father's day , Christmas .
- ⌚3 ATM WATERPROOF MILITARY WATCHES: 30M waterproof, sweat-proof, rain-proof and hand-washing for daily life, no problem. But NOT suitable for swimming, bathing, diving or touch hot water. Perfect for most of indoor / outdoor sports.
- ⌚ EASY TO READ TIME: 12 / 24 hrs military time and luminous dial. The mens watches equipped with date calendar can tell you the time quickly and accurately. Come with luminous function, easy to read the time even in the dark.
- ⌚ PURCHASE WITHOUT WORRY: Japan imported quartz analog movement and battery, long-term operation. for 1 years,24-hour customer service is at your service.
| Comparison point | Vertex | Other named makers |
|---|---|---|
| Heritage in the group | British-origin maker; described by Fratello and GQ as the only British member. | The other eleven names in GQ’s list are characterized there as Swiss brands. |
| Wartime model in this account | Cal. 59 W.W.W. | The sources name the makers but do not establish a model-by-model comparison here. |
| Modern brand chapter | M100 and MP45 are later products associated with the post-2016 revival. | Not stated in the cited sources. |
| What group membership proves | Historical association and British heritage; not the originality, condition or value of an individual watch. | Membership in the named group; not the originality, condition or value of an individual watch. |
For a specific vintage watch, the relevant evidence is watch-specific: condition, originality, provenance and service history. The group label or a maker’s national heritage cannot substitute for that evidence.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Sources and historical limits
The group framing and modern-model details here rely on Fratello’s industry coverage and GQ’s magazine account; the reported delivery number comes through Bond Lifestyle’s 2026 article, which attributes it to Vertex. These sources support the distinction between Vertex’s wartime Cal. 59 W.W.W. and the revived brand’s later models, but they do not establish current product availability, present-day prices or the condition and authenticity of any watch offered for sale.
Quick Recap
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- ⌚ MENS WATCHES ANALOG: Mens military watches made with shock-resistant stainless steel case and anti-scratch mineral window, exquisitely crafted and durable. Men's watch strap width: 22mm / 0.86 inches, stainless steel case: 42mm / 1.65 inches.
- ⌚ MILITARY WATCHES FOR MEN: This mens field watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, with a comfortable double nylon strap, will suitable for personal use and good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday , the father's day , Christmas .
- ⌚3 ATM WATERPROOF MILITARY WATCHES: 30M waterproof, sweat-proof, rain-proof and hand-washing for daily life, no problem. But NOT suitable for swimming, bathing, diving or touch hot water. Perfect for most of indoor / outdoor sports.
- ⌚ EASY TO READ TIME: 12 / 24 hrs military time and luminous dial. The mens watches equipped with date calendar can tell you the time quickly and accurately. Come with luminous function, easy to read the time even in the dark.
- ⌚ PURCHASE WITHOUT WORRY: Japan imported quartz analog movement and battery, long-term operation. for 1 years,24-hour customer service is at your service.
Rank #4
- STEALTH TACTICAL DESIGN: Embrace the elite "all-black" aesthetic with this stealth military watch. Featuring a matte black case and a high-contrast dial with bold white numerals, it delivers a professional, heavy-duty look that punches far above its price point. Perfect for tactical enthusiasts and those who prefer a low-profile, rugged style.
- PRECISION 12/24H MILITARY TIME: Designed for mission-critical clarity. This analog watch features the Miyota 2105 Japanese Movement,a dual-dial display (12H and 24H military time) and a quick-read Day-Date calendar (English/Spanish). It’s an essential tool for EMS, security professionals, and night-shift workers who need instant, error-free timekeeping.
- REINFORCED FOR DAILY WORK: Engineered as a reliable "beater watch" for the worksite. Protected by a tough stainless steel case back and an anti-scratch mineral window, this field watch is built to withstand the rigors of construction, industrial work, and outdoor sports. The red-tipped second hand provides precise tracking for tactical needs.
- LIGHTWEIGHT & ADJUSTABLE COMFORT: Featuring a premium 22mm black nylon slip-thru strap, this tactical watch is designed for all-day breathability and comfort. Unlike heavy metal bands, it won't weigh you down during intense activity. The adjustable strap fits a wide range of wrist sizes, up to a 9-inch circumference.
- 5ATM WATER RESISTANT (LIFE-PROOF): Rated for 50M (5ATM) resistance, it easily handles rain, sweat, and hand-washing. To ensure longevity and prevent fogging, avoid exposure to hot water, steam, or high-pressure swimming. Comes in an original box, making it a high-value gift for birthdays, veterans, or any man who appreciates a functional, rugged timepiece.
- Fratello: Vertex and the Dirty Dozen (10 April 2019)
- GQ: The Dirty Dozen watches (2024)
- Bond Lifestyle: Charlie Higson, King Zero and Vertex (2026)
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