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Vulcain Skindiver Hands-On: The 2023 Launch and Its Specs

Vulcain’s 2023 Skindiver launch paired a 38 mm steel case and automatic ETA 2824-2 with black or blue dials. Here are the reported specs, wrist impressions and vintage Nautique connection.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Vulcain introduced the Skindiver in January 2023 as a modern skin diver inspired by its 1960s Nautique. In Balazs Ferenczi’s launch-day hands-on for Fratello, the new watch paired a 38 mm steel case with an automatic ETA 2824-2, 200 m water resistance and a choice of black or blue dial. The details below reflect that dated launch report—not a current price or availability check.

What Vulcain launched in 2023

The Skindiver, reference 660170, revisits the look of the vintage Vulcain Nautique, reference P4322A. The names are easy to mix up: the Nautique is the vintage model discussed in the launch feature, while the Vulcain Nautical is a separate watch. The modern Skindiver is larger and automatic, and the January 2023 feature presents it in two dial colors.

Black and blue dials

The black dial is matte. The blue version has a lighter hue and vertical brushing. Both are described with white printing and khaki-brown Luminova indexes. The blue dial’s brushing gives it a more visibly textured surface than the matte black option.

Case, movement and launch specifications

The following figures are those reported in Ferenczi’s January 18, 2023 Fratello launch feature; they are not independently or currently manufacturer-verified here.

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Specification Reported launch detail
Reference 660170
Case 316L stainless steel, vertically brushed; 38 mm diameter, 12.2 mm thick and 43.8 mm lug-to-lug
Crystal Double-domed sapphire
Case back Polished 316L stainless steel
Movement Automatic ETA 2824-2; 25 jewels; approximately 38 hours of power reserve; 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Water resistance 200 m / 20 ATM
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and dive-time bezel
Strap 20/16 mm black carbon-pattern leather; plain black and brown leather options were also reported
Launch price CHF 1,490, as reported in January 2023

How the proportions wore in the hands-on

Ferenczi called the 38 mm case contemporary rather than small. He reported that it felt comfortable on his relatively large wrist and on colleague Mike’s smaller wrist, but those are two personal impressions, not a formal fit test or a guarantee for other wrists. The 43.8 mm lug-to-lug measurement is useful to compare against a watch that already fits you; wrist shape and strap choice can affect how a case sits.

Ferenczi preferred the relatively thin carbon-pattern leather strap and felt the other straps looked too thick for his taste. That is his subjective assessment. The article lists a 20/16 mm strap and alternate plain black and brown leather options; check both lug and buckle widths before choosing a replacement, since a strap’s width at one end does not establish its fit at the other.

How the modern Skindiver compares with the vintage Nautique

The launch feature describes the older Nautique as a 36 mm hand-wound diver with caliber 1686, a black dial and bezel, and a Tropic Star diving strap. The comparison is useful for understanding the inspiration, but the watches differ in size and winding type.

Feature Vintage Nautique, as described in the 2023 feature Modern Skindiver, as reported at launch
Size 36 mm 38 mm diameter; 43.8 mm lug-to-lug
Movement Hand-wound caliber 1686 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Dial and bezel Black dial and bezel Matte black or vertically brushed blue dial; dive-time bezel
Strap Tropic Star diving strap 20/16 mm carbon-pattern leather, with plain black and brown leather options reported
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Price and what the launch report can establish

The Fratello article gave CHF 1,490 as the launch price and included an approximate euro conversion of €1,485. Both figures belong to that January 2023 article; neither establishes today’s retail price, stock, catalog status or strap availability. Ferenczi described the CHF price as fair value for what the watch offered, an opinion rather than a current valuation.

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The article also says Oris and Baltic make watches in the same broad genre, but it does not identify matched alternatives or provide current prices and side-by-side specifications. A useful comparison would check case diameter and lug-to-lug length, dial color and finish, movement and date display, water resistance, strap configuration and price. Without comparable model details, the launch feature does not support declaring one brand or watch the better choice.

Quick Recap

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Ptolemaic Universe Model Astronomy Unisex Analog Watch
Ptolemaic Universe Model Astronomy Unisex Analog Watch
Features a 33mm diameter face, genuine leather band, and Japanese quartz movement.; Battery included, and comes boxed in a beautiful tin display case.
$47.13

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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