This is a personal fantasy list, not a ranking of the world’s objectively best watches. In a 2023 Fratello article, Thomas Van Straaten imagined having unlimited money and access to watches that can be difficult to obtain, then chose ten pieces he could genuinely see himself buying. His picks range from a technically ambitious Grand Seiko to dress watches, chronographs and integrated-bracelet sports watches. The prices below are figures reported in that 2023 article, not current quotes or confirmation of availability.
What makes this a personal watch list?
Van Straaten set out to choose watches he might buy in real life if money and availability were no concern. He explicitly framed the result as personal taste rather than an objective top ten, and excluded vintage and pre-owned watches. His reasons vary: sometimes a movement’s construction or finishing wins him over; elsewhere it is a dial, case shape, color or the way a watch might wear.
The ten selections and prices that follow are from his Fratello article, published February 15, 2023. Prices are historical source-reported figures; they should not be treated as current retail prices, offers or evidence that a watch is available today. The article also does not establish present-day stock or regional pricing. Read Van Straaten’s original list at Fratello.
The ten watches on the list
1. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Van Straaten makes the Kodo his first choice. He admires the combination of a constant-force mechanism and tourbillon on the same axis, but says its aesthetics are the main draw for him. Fratello’s 2023 article described it as introduced at Watches and Wonders 2022 and limited to 20 pieces to be made over time. It also reported a price of €370,000 and the author’s then-current assumption that it remained on Grand Seiko’s website; neither that historical availability impression nor the price verifies its current status.
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- What appeals to him: the visual design, alongside the unusual pairing of mechanisms.
- Collection role: an ambitious technical and visual centerpiece.
- 2023 article price: €370,000.
2. Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 3B
The NH Type 3B stands out to Van Straaten for its engraved details: Roman numerals on a German-silver dial and an 18K yellow-gold moon disc, both described in the article as hand engraved. The reported case diameter is 37 mm. Its appeal here is less about a headline complication and more about the character of the dial and the craft visible in its elements.
- What appeals to him: the Roman numerals and engraved gold moon disc.
- Reported case size: 37 mm.
- 2023 article price: ¥2,860,000, approximately €20,400 in the article.
3. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph in 18K rose gold
Van Straaten considers other Lange models, but the reverse of this chronograph settles his choice. The article identifies its hand-wound caliber L951.5 and describes it as comprising 306 components. He is especially taken with the movement’s open architecture and finishing—an example of a watch whose mechanical view matters as much to him as its dial-side presence.
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- What appeals to him: the exposed, finely finished movement.
- Movement: hand-wound caliber L951.5; 306 components, as reported in the 2023 article.
- 2023 article price: approximately €63,300.
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding, ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.06
This is the steel Royal Oak configuration with a 37 mm case, 9 mm thickness and a “Bleu Nuit” Grande Tapisserie dial. Van Straaten values the model’s cohesive design and historical significance. He says he slightly prefers the Patek Philippe Nautilus in the abstract, but rules it out for himself on size grounds; this Royal Oak is the choice that better fits his preferences.
- What appeals to him: the integrated design, its history and the blue dial.
- Reported dimensions: 37 mm across and 9 mm thick.
- 2023 article price: CHF 22,600, approximately €22,900 in the article.
5. Patek Philippe Calatrava, ref. 6119R
Van Straaten chooses the rose-gold 6119R over a more complicated Patek Philippe because he prefers its appearance. The article describes it as a hand-wound, ultra-thin three-hand watch with a hobnail bezel and a 39 mm case. It brings a restrained dress-watch option into a list otherwise rich in conspicuous engineering and sporty integrated-bracelet designs.
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- What appeals to him: the overall look, particularly the hobnail bezel.
- Movement and format: hand-wound, ultra-thin three-hander, as described in the article.
- Reported case size: 39 mm.
- 2023 article price: €32,900.
6. Omega Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold with green bezel and dial
The gold-and-green color pairing is the deciding feature for Van Straaten: he likes the contrast between the Moonshine Gold case and the green bezel and dial. He also reports having handled the watch at a Speedy Tuesday event. That is his account of an experience, not an independent assessment of the watch’s feel or performance.
- What appeals to him: the contrast of gold and green.
- Collection role: a distinctive precious-metal take on the Moonwatch.
- 2023 article price: €45,000.
7. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute in red
Van Straaten’s color choice here is vivid red. He calls attention to the hands and indices, which he finds appealing, and labels this the most attainable watch on his fantasy list. That description is relative to the other nine selections and to the prices reported in the 2023 article, not a statement about today’s affordability or availability.
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- What appeals to him: the red color and the hands and indices.
- Collection role: a colorful Reverso among more conventional dress and sports choices.
- 2023 article price: €10,300.
8. Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Micro-Rotor Autumn
The Galet Square pairs a cushion-shaped case with a vertically brushed copper dial. Van Straaten also singles out its natural escapement. The combination gives this selection a quieter, independent-watch character, with the dial’s warm tone and case form doing as much to distinguish it as the movement detail.
- What appeals to him: the cushion case, copper dial and natural escapement.
- 2023 article price: CHF 47,500, approximately €48,100 before taxes in the article.
9. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in 18K yellow gold
Van Straaten’s choice is the yellow-gold 222, described in the article as 37 mm wide and less than 8 mm thick. Its integrated bracelet and notched bezel give the watch a distinctive profile without relying on a large case. The appeal is in the combination of slim proportions and an unmistakable case-and-bracelet design.
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- What appeals to him: the integrated bracelet, notched bezel and compact proportions.
- Reported dimensions: 37 mm wide and under 8 mm thick.
- 2023 article price: €78,500.
10. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm
Van Straaten sees the 38 mm Laureato as a more wearable daily alternative. He praises the case shape and the visual transition from bezel to mid-case to bracelet, as well as the warm copper tone. Compared with the gold 222 or the Moonshine Gold Moonwatch, this is the list’s more understated integrated-bracelet option.
- What appeals to him: the case-to-bracelet design and copper color.
- Collection role: a daily-wear alternative among statement pieces.
- 2023 article price: €15,700.
How the picks differ
The list is not organized around a single definition of a great watch. Instead, it shows the different qualities that can make a watch compelling to one collector: movement architecture, finishing, case proportions, dial color, hand engraving or an integrated bracelet. The table summarizes the distinctions Van Straaten emphasizes; it does not rate the watches against one another.
| Watch | Feature emphasized by Van Straaten | Role or character |
|---|---|---|
| Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon | Same-axis constant-force mechanism and tourbillon; aesthetics | Technical centerpiece |
| Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 3B | Engraved Roman numerals and gold moon disc | Craft- and dial-focused choice |
| A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph | Open architecture and finishing of the hand-wound movement | Chronograph with movement-side appeal |
| Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding | 37 mm proportions, cohesive design and history | Steel integrated-bracelet sports watch |
| Patek Philippe Calatrava | Hobnail bezel and overall appearance | Rose-gold dress watch |
| Omega Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold | Gold-and-green contrast | Precious-metal Moonwatch with a strong color statement |
| Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute | Red color, hands and indices | Colorful, comparatively attainable pick within this list |
| Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Micro-Rotor Autumn | Cushion case, copper dial and natural escapement | Independent watch with warm dial tones |
| Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 | Slim proportions, notched bezel and integrated bracelet | Yellow-gold integrated-bracelet design |
| Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm | Case-to-bracelet transitions and copper tone | More wearable daily alternative |
What did the ten-watch list cost in 2023?
Adding the figures printed in the Fratello article, Van Straaten gave a combined tally of €707,100, subject to currency-conversion variation. Without the €370,000 Grand Seiko Kodo, the article’s tally was €337,100. These are the author’s 2023 calculations from the period prices listed above, not a current shopping budget: no updated prices, taxes across regions, or current availability are established here.
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