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From 2011 to 2015, Bvlgari made the Octo the centre of a wider and more technically ambitious watch collection. The modern Octo arrived in 2012, gained a steel bracelet in 2013, and expanded in 2014 into smaller models, a chronograph and the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo. The period also included a historically thin tourbillon, new women’s collections and complications beyond Octo.
2011–2012: A new corporate era and the modern Octo
Time and Watches dates LVMH’s acquisition of a majority stake in Bvlgari to 2011. It is useful context for the company’s watchmaking story, but the transaction alone does not explain the collection’s subsequent development. Time and Watches’ Bvlgari chronology
Bvlgari’s official history dates the modern Octo’s debut to 2012. Its defining case combines square and circular forms into an octagonal geometry, which the brand connects to Roman architecture. The result established a distinctive design language that could support a collection rather than a single watch. Bvlgari’s official Octo history
2013: The Octo gains a steel bracelet
Fratello’s retrospective places the first Octo steel-bracelet model in 2013. It retained the in-house BVL 193 movement, while the articulated bracelet used alternating polished and brushed surfaces to echo the case’s finishing. The bracelet extended the design from a distinctive case into a more integrated, everyday-looking form. Fratello’s Octo retrospective
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- Scale and pointer: The dial uses Roman numeral scales, which are particularly eye-catching on the mother of pearl dial. The pointer also adopts a design, decorated with a circle of shiny diamonds around the edge of the dial, adding a sense of luxury to the watch. The watch strap is made of stainless steel, which not only enhances the comfort of the watch but also makes the entire watch more modern and fashionable.
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Fratello also reports that Jean-Christophe Babin became Bvlgari CEO in 2013. Its account credits the work of Babin, watch design director Fabrizio Buonomassa and watchmaking head Guido Terreni with helping advance the watch business; that is the retrospective author’s interpretation of their roles.
2014: The Octo becomes a broader collection
At Baselworld 2014, Bvlgari broadened the Octo in both size and function. Europa Star reported a 41 mm chronograph and new 38 mm models. Guido Terreni, then head of Bvlgari’s watch division, described the strategy: “the objective is to make the Octo a complete line and we had to have a larger offer for men”. He also noted demand for a smaller-size Octo. Europa Star’s 2014 Baselworld report
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Octo options reported in 2014
| Model or type | Case size | Movement or complication | Period detail |
|---|---|---|---|
| Octo time-only models | 38 mm | BVL 191 | New models reported by Europa Star in 2014 |
| Octo chronograph | 41 mm | BVL 328 column-wheel chronograph | Zenith El Primero-derived and personalized for Bvlgari; 36,600 vibrations per hour and a 50-hour power reserve, as reported by Europa Star in 2014 |
| Octo Finissimo | 40 mm | Manual-wind BVL 128 | 5.15 mm case thickness, 2.23 mm movement thickness and 65-hour power reserve, according to Fratello’s 2021 retrospective on the 2014 launch |
| Octo Finissimo Tourbillon | Not stated in the cited retrospective | Flying tourbillon BVL 268 | 1.95 mm movement thickness; described as the thinnest tourbillon movement at its 2014 launch by Fratello, with the thickness and Baselworld presentation corroborated by Time and Watches |
These are different propositions, not interchangeable versions of one watch: the 38 mm models prioritized timekeeping in a smaller case, the 41 mm chronograph added timing functionality, and the Finissimo models pursued extreme thinness. The table’s figures are specific to the models and sources named; they should not be generalized across the Octo collection.
2014: The Octo Finissimo establishes an ultra-thin direction
The Octo Finissimo arrived in 2014 with a 40 mm platinum case measuring 5.15 mm thick and a manual-wind BVL 128 movement measuring 2.23 mm thick. Fratello’s 2021 retrospective gives the movement a 65-hour power reserve. This first Finissimo was an ultra-thin milestone in its own right, distinct from the automatic and record-setting Finissimo models Bvlgari introduced later. Fratello’s Octo retrospective
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- Dial design: Suit for 6.1-6.9 in wrist size. The shape of the dial is different from traditional circular or square dials, adopting a teardrop shaped design similar to a snake head. Celebrate the Year of the Snake with this Lunar New Year capsule, symbolizing wisdom and transformation. The streamlined contour makes the watch look more dynamic and artistic. The surface of the dial is made of mother of pearl material, which has a natural luster and delicate texture.
- Scale and pointer: The dial uses blue Roman numeral scales, which are particularly eye-catching on the mother of pearl dial. The pointer also adopts a blue design, decorated with a circle of shiny diamonds around the edge of the dial, adding a sense of luxury to the watch. The watch strap is made of stainless steel and features an exquisite mesh design, which not only enhances the comfort of the watch but also makes the entire watch more modern and fashionable.
- Lunar Snake Year New Year Gift: Luxury presents to yourself for birthday, an exquisite gifts to mother, wife for Mother's Day, anniversary, Valentine's Day and Christmas
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- MASTOP Women Watches: If you receive other colors, please contact us and we will send you a replacement separately.
Also in 2014, Bvlgari presented the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with the flying-tourbillon BVL 268, measuring 1.95 mm thick. Fratello describes it as the thinnest tourbillon movement at that time; Time and Watches corroborates the figure and its presentation at Baselworld. That is a claim about the launch-era record, not a claim about the thinnest tourbillon today. Time and Watches’ Bvlgari chronology
2014: Diva and Serpenti broaden the women’s offer
Bvlgari’s Baselworld story was not limited to Octo. Europa Star reported the launch of the Diva collection alongside additional Serpenti models, including versions with onyx and full-gold designs. These releases show the range of the 2014 collection across different audiences and styles without tying the broader watch story to a single design.
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2015: The Octo in the catalogue, and watchmaking beyond it
Bvlgari’s 2015 catalogue presents Octo as a varied line, with automatic models using BVL 191 or BVL 193 in gold and other configurations. It describes 110 separate facets worked by hand, with alternating polished and brushed finishes. The catalogue’s specifications differ by reference, so a single model’s water resistance or power reserve should not be treated as a specification for the entire line. Bvlgari’s 2015 watch catalogue
Fratello’s retrospective also points beyond Octo in 2015. The Diagono Magnesium used magnesium in the middle case and dial, while Daniel Roth complications included the Papillon Tourbillon. Together, these examples show that Bvlgari’s watchmaking in this period extended beyond its increasingly prominent Octo family. Fratello’s Octo retrospective
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