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Baume & Mercier Riviera: The Story Behind the Watch’s 50th Anniversary

Launched in 1973, Baume & Mercier’s Riviera is defined by its twelve-sided case and bezel. Here’s how the original tuning-fork watch evolved by its 50th anniversary.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Baume & Mercier introduced the Riviera in 1973, and the watch’s most recognizable feature was present from the start: a twelve-sided case and bezel. For its 50th anniversary in 2023, CEO David Chaumet revisited the collection’s story in an interview with Time+Tide. The original watch was an electronic tuning-fork model; later generations kept the Riviera’s angular outline while changing its movements, materials and configurations.

What is the story behind the Baume & Mercier Riviera?

The Riviera was created as a distinctive sports watch, designed by Jean-Claude Gueit and launched by Baume & Mercier in 1973. Its defining design is a dodecagonal case and bezel: twelve straight-edged segments form the outline and visually connect with the dial’s twelve numerals. That geometry—not a particular movement or case size—is the through-line linking the first Riviera to later generations.

In its 2023 anniversary coverage, Time+Tide presented CEO David Chaumet revisiting the Riviera’s history under the phrase “Just created, 50 years ago.” The interview is useful context for the anniversary, but its linked video is not available as a text transcript here; specific spoken recollections or quotations from Chaumet therefore cannot be reliably reproduced.

What was the original Riviera like?

Baume & Mercier’s anniversary history describes the 1973 Riviera as having a flat-link metal bracelet, a date window and an ESA 6192 electronic tuning-fork movement. Its twelve-sided architecture set it apart visually, while its electronic movement made it a product of its own period rather than a direct template for the mechanical and automatic watches that followed.

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Reloj Baume Mercier Classima 42mm Automatico Azul M0A10784
  • Featuring a Blue Band, Silver-tone Case, Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal

The brand’s account also offers a clue to the design approach: Gueit described himself as a “watch stylist” rather than a designer. The distinction suits the Riviera’s emphasis on a recognizable outline and an integrated visual identity.

How has the Riviera changed across generations?

Baume & Mercier presents the collection as evolving through successive generations rather than remaining a frozen reissue of the 1973 watch. Its official description of the 2021 generation retains the dodecagonal bezel and four bezel screws, while adding an interchangeable bracelet-and-strap system. The central design language persists, but the practical details and mechanical technology have moved on.

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This continuity helps explain why the Riviera can appear both familiar and substantially different from its original form. The twelve-sided frame supplies the family resemblance; case size, dial treatment, movement, water resistance and strap or bracelet options distinguish individual models.

What did the Riviera lineup look like for the 50th anniversary?

Time+Tide’s May 2023 account highlighted a 39 mm Riviera Baumatic and a 42 mm Riviera Azur rated to 300 metres. The following are specifications reported for that 2023 lineup, not confirmation of models or availability today:

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Baume & Mercier Men's 8787 Classima Executives Watch
  • Swiss Automatic Movement
  • White dial with hours, minutes, seconds, date
  • Yellow gold round case
  • Black alligator strap
  • Water resistant to 99 feet (30 M): withstands rain and splashes of water, but not showering or submersion
2023 model described Case size Water resistance Movement and reserve Case material and configuration
Riviera Baumatic 39 mm 100 m Baumatic BM13-1975A; 120-hour power reserve Not stated in the cited 2023 summary
Riviera Azur 42 mm 300 m Not stated in the cited 2023 summary Not stated in the cited 2023 summary

The figures above are reported by Time+Tide for the anniversary-era models. The article does not establish present-day stock, current specifications or prices, so buyers should check Baume & Mercier’s current listings for the exact reference they are considering.

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Why the Riviera’s anniversary matters

The 50th anniversary is a useful point to understand the collection as a design lineage rather than a single specification. The original 1973 watch combined Gueit’s angular case with a tuning-fork movement and a flat-link bracelet; the modern collection adapts that recognizable silhouette to different sizes, water-resistance levels and movement choices. The Riviera’s history is therefore less about unchanged components than about preserving a distinctive shape through successive interpretations.

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Baume & Mercier Men's BMMOA10111 Clifton Analog Display Swiss Automatic Brown Watch
  • Grey dial with rose gold-toned hands and alternating arabic numeral and index hour markers
  • Stainless steel case with a brown alligator leather strap
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  • Case diameter: 43mm
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Sources: Time+Tide Watches, 21 May 2023; Baume & Mercier Riviera 50th Anniversary history; Baume & Mercier Riviera Baumatic collection.

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$3,150.00
Bestseller No. 3
Baume & Mercier Men's 8787 Classima Executives Watch
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Swiss Automatic Movement; White dial with hours, minutes, seconds, date; Yellow gold round case
$6,900.00
Bestseller No. 4
Baume & Mercier Men's BMMOA10111 Clifton Analog Display Swiss Automatic Brown Watch
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Grey dial with rose gold-toned hands and alternating arabic numeral and index hour markers
$2,050.00
Bestseller No. 5
Baume & Mercier Men's BMMOA10140 Clifton Analog Display Swiss Automatic Two Tone Watch
Baume & Mercier Men's BMMOA10140 Clifton Analog Display Swiss Automatic Two Tone Watch
Silver dial with gold-toned hands and alternating index and arabic numeral hour markers; Two-tone stainless steel case with a two-tone stainless steel bracelet
$2,295.00
Best Value
Baume & Mercier Men's BMMOA10140 Clifton Analog Display Swiss Automatic Two Tone Watch
  • Silver dial with gold-toned hands and alternating index and arabic numeral hour markers
  • Two-tone stainless steel case with a two-tone stainless steel bracelet
  • Swiss-automatic movement
  • Case diameter: 41mm
  • Water resistant to 165 feet

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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