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1Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute2Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors3Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesThe Breguet Type 20 made for Only Watch 2019 is a one-off steel pilot chronograph, not a regular production model. Its defining combination is a bronze-colored dial, a compact 38.30 mm case and a refurbished hand-wound Valjoux 235 flyback movement rooted in Breguet’s 1950s military-watch history. The published descriptions provide a detailed picture, though they are not a first-hand inspection.
What is the Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019?
Christie’s identifies the watch as reference 2055ST/Z5/398 and describes it as a unique piece. Its solid caseback is engraved “Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Pièce Unique,” an explicit marker of its one-off status. The available descriptions do not establish that Breguet later turned this design into a commercial model.
The watch was created for Only Watch, the biennial charity auction. Contemporary coverage listed the 2019 sale in Geneva for November 9, 2019. The sources cited here do not establish this lot’s final realized price, so an estimate should not be mistaken for a sale result.
Case and dial: a military-watch layout with a bronze-colored face
Christie’s lists a round steel case measuring 38.30 mm across and 13.90 mm thick, with water resistance of 3 bar (30 m). The case has rounded lugs, a pear-shaped crown and a bidirectional rotating bezel marked for flight calculations. These are specifications from the auction description, not results of an independent measurement or water-resistance test.
The Tool Desk
Outbyte Driver Updater FREEFix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Outbyte PC Repair FREERepair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →The bronze-colored dial carries luminous Arabic hour numerals and hands. Small seconds sit at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3, and the chronograph seconds hand runs from the center. That two-register arrangement keeps the display close to the practical, legible instrument-watch character associated with the Type 20.
How the Valjoux 235 flyback movement works
Inside is a manually wound Valjoux 235, described by Christie’s as a refurbished historic movement derived from the Valjoux 222 used in the 1950s. The auction listing specifies a column wheel, flyback function, 17 jewels, 183 components, a 3 Hz frequency and a stated 45-hour power reserve. Monochrome reports the same frequency as 18,000 vibrations per hour.
Rank #2
- VK63 MECHA-QUARTZ CHRONOGRAPH: The WD1863 uses a VK63 mecha-quartz movement with a central 1/5-second chronograph hand, 60-minute counter, running small seconds and a 24-hour display. The pushers control start, stop and reset, combining quartz accuracy with crisp mechanical-style chronograph action for practical elapsed-time measurement.
- BUBBLE SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL & ALUMINUM BEZEL: The raised bubble-style sapphire crystal adds depth above the dial, while a high-clear inner AR coating helps reduce reflections. A 316L stainless steel case and bracelet provide a solid everyday build, and the fixed aluminum bezel creates a defined frame around the vintage chronograph display.
- SUPER BGW-9 BLUE LUME: BGW-9 super luminous material is applied to the hands, hour markers and selected dial details. After exposure to light, these elements produce a blue glow that supports quick time reading in darker surroundings. Coverage follows the individual dial design and remains clearly arranged around the three-register chronograph display.
- 100M WATER RESISTANCE: The screw-down crown and screw-down case back support a 100M water-resistance rating for daily wear and suitable surface-water use. Always tighten the crown fully before contact with water, do not operate the chronograph pushers while the watch is wet or submerged, and avoid hot water, steam and diving. Water resistance should be checked periodically as seals age.
- COMPACT 39MM WRIST PROFILE: The WD1863 measures 39mm across the bezel, with a 41mm mid-case, 46mm lug-to-lug length, 12.9mm thickness including the raised crystal and 20mm lug width. These proportions balance the detail of a three-register chronograph with a wearable footprint. The 20mm bracelet remains proportionate to the case, while the raised crystal adds vintage depth to the compact design.
A conventional chronograph generally requires separate stop, reset and restart actions to time consecutive events. Flyback lets the wearer reset and restart in one operation: Christie’s explains that pressing the lower pushbutton resets the chronograph to zero, simplifying timing of successive intervals. That function was useful for pilots who needed to record consecutive times without pausing for multiple button presses.
Why this design is called a Type 20
In the historical account in Christie’s lot essay, the French Ministry of Defense drew up specifications for Air Force chronograph wristwatches in the early 1950s and designated them Type 20. The essay says Breguet proposed a model that was approved in 1954. It also links the 2019 watch’s Valjoux 235 to the Valjoux 222 used in that era.
Rank #3
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Monochrome characterized the Only Watch piece as an especially faithful re-edition, with the historic movement choice reinforcing that connection. The bronze-colored dial gives this unique auction watch a distinctive appearance, but the sources do not establish it as a standard Type 20 colorway or a production reference.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Strap and practical fit information
The documented strap is calfskin; Monochrome specifies brown calfskin and a steel pin buckle. Neither source states the lug width, so the strap’s color and material alone are not enough to identify a replacement. Confirm lug width and buckle fit before buying a strap for this watch.
Quick Recap
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Rank #4
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- Durable Stainless Steel & Hardlex Crystal:The case and bracelet are forged from high‑grade stainless steel for lasting durability, There are leather straps and stainless steel straps to choose from,Hardlex glass offers superior impact and scratch resistance, keeping your watch face pristine through daily adventures.
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Specifications
| Specification | Published description |
|---|---|
| Reference | 2055ST/Z5/398 |
| Status | Unique Only Watch 2019 piece, according to Christie’s |
| Case | Steel; 38.30 mm diameter; 13.90 mm thick |
| Water resistance | 3 bar (30 m), as listed by Christie’s |
| Dial | Bronze-colored; luminous Arabic numerals and hands; small seconds at 9; 30-minute counter at 3 |
| Movement | Hand-wound Valjoux 235; column wheel; flyback; 17 jewels; 183 components; 3 Hz |
| Power reserve | 45 hours, as stated by Christie’s |
| Strap | Calfskin; Monochrome specifies brown; lug width not stated |
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