For a no-date 1990s diver, Fratello writer Jorg Weppelink’s pick is the Rolex Submariner 14060. It is one of several worthwhile references from the decade, not an objectively proven winner: the right choice depends on whether you want a simple diver, a date display, travel-time functionality, or a dressier watch. This guide’s original selection was published September 11, 2021, so its prices are historical—not current buying advice.
How to choose among 1990s Rolex references
Start with what you want the watch to do, then narrow by reference and verify the individual example. A reference number alone does not establish a watch’s authenticity, originality, or condition.
- Function: decide whether you want a diver, a second time zone, or a straightforward everyday or dress watch.
- Date: choose between a date display and the cleaner no-date layout.
- Configuration: compare the exact reference, production year, case material, bezel, dial, and bracelet.
- Example quality: review originality, condition, service history, documentation, and seller reliability. For a high-value pre-owned watch, arrange an independent watchmaker’s assessment.
Notable Rolex watches from the 1990s
The list below combines Jorg Weppelink’s personal selections in Fratello’s 2021 guide with additional candidates named by retailer Bob’s Watches. It is a practical shortlist, not a comprehensive catalog or universal ranking.
| Reference | Best suited to | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Submariner 14060 | A no-date diver | Weppelink’s preferred diver in the Fratello guide. Fratello describes it as a 40 mm watch with sapphire crystal, Caliber 3000, and stated water resistance of 300 m. Fratello says the updated 14060M arrived in 1999 with Caliber 3130. |
| Submariner 16610 | A date-equipped diver | Included among notable 1990s references by Bob’s Watches. Compare the specific watch’s configuration and condition. |
| GMT-Master 16700 | The original GMT hand arrangement | Fratello dates its production run to 1988–1999. It retains the original GMT arrangement and uses the bezel to indicate another time zone. |
| GMT-Master II 16710 | Travel with an independently set local hour | A distinct model from the GMT-Master 16700. Rolex says the GMT-Master II gained its independent hour-hand function with a new movement in 1982. Compare the particular watch’s bezel and color configuration. |
| Explorer 14270 | A compact, time-only everyday watch | Fratello notes that it was announced in 1989, just before the decade. Its 36 mm case, dial, and movement-era details are useful points of comparison. |
| Explorer II 16570 | An additional sports-watch option | Listed among 1990s candidates by Bob’s Watches. Confirm the exact year and configuration of any example. |
| Sea-Dweller 16600 | A deeper-diving professional-style option | Included in Bob’s Watches’ broader list of notable 1990s references. Assess the individual watch rather than assuming specifications from its reference alone. |
| Datejust 16233 or 16234 | A dressier alternative | Bob’s Watches describes the 16233 as a two-tone 36 mm example that continued through the 1990s, with sapphire crystal and Caliber 3135. The 16233 and 16234 are both on its candidate list; compare material and dial details for the exact watch. |
| Yacht-Master 16628 or 16622 | More opulent, nautical styling | Bob’s Watches says the Yacht-Master debuted in all-gold ref. 16628 and that steel-and-platinum ref. 16622 followed in 1999. The source contrasts the Yacht-Master’s stated 100 m water resistance with the Submariner’s 300 m; these are retailer-guide details, not a substitute for checking a specific watch. |
Submariner: choose the date or no-date version
14060: the simple diver
The 14060 is the clearest choice if you want a Submariner without a date window. In Fratello’s September 2021 selection, Weppelink favors it as the decade’s diver. Fratello’s period details are a 40 mm case, sapphire crystal, Caliber 3000, and 300 m stated water resistance. Those details describe the reference as presented by that secondary source; confirm the precise reference and configuration of the watch you are considering.
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Fratello says the updated 14060M arrived in 1999 with Caliber 3130. If a seller describes a watch as a 14060 or 14060M, verify the reference rather than relying on a broad “1990s Submariner” label.
16610: the date-equipped alternative
Bob’s Watches includes the Submariner 16610 in its broader list of notable references. It gives a date-equipped option for buyers who prefer that function, while the 14060 is the no-date direction. The sources here do not establish a full specification comparison between the two, so inspect the exact watch’s details and documentation.
Rank #2
GMT-Master 16700 or GMT-Master II 16710?
These are not interchangeable names for the same watch. Rolex’s history says the GMT-Master began in 1955 as a navigation aid and that, in 1982, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II with a new movement that allowed its hour hand to be set independently. The GMT hand and bezel support displaying time across zones. Rolex’s GMT-Master II history and model information provides the brand’s account of that distinction.
Choose the 16700 for the original arrangement
Fratello says the 16700 retains the original GMT hand arrangement and uses the bezel to indicate another time zone. It dates the model’s run to 1988–1999, making it a reference that spans the decade’s boundaries.
Rank #3
- Water resistant, not water proof, do not submerge in water, digital sport watch in rectangle case, alarm, chronograph functions, and night light, quartz movement with digital display
- Measuring modes include net time, split time, and first and second place times, functions include digital stopwatch, hourly time signal, auto calendar, and day/date.
- Quartz Movement
- Case Diameter: 33mm
- Not water resistant
Choose the 16710 for the independent hour hand
The GMT-Master II 16710 is the direction to investigate if independently setting the local hour is important. Bob’s Watches includes it among notable 1990s references. Confirm the precise reference and bezel configuration on the individual watch rather than assuming every example has the same appearance.
Other styles: Explorer, Sea-Dweller, Datejust, and Yacht-Master
Explorer 14270 and Explorer II 16570
The Explorer 14270 offers a compact, time-only route into the period shortlist. Fratello notes it was announced in 1989, so its story crosses into the 1990s rather than beginning strictly within them. Bob’s Watches also identifies the Explorer II 16570 as a candidate. If decade boundaries matter to you, distinguish a model announced before 1990 from a watch whose own production year falls in the decade.
Sea-Dweller 16600
Bob’s Watches lists the Sea-Dweller 16600 among its 1990s candidates. The source does not provide a detailed comparison with the Submariner references here, so treat it as a separate model to investigate, not as a simple specification upgrade inferred from its name.
Datejust 16233 and 16234
The Datejust is the dressier path among these options. Bob’s Watches describes the 16233 as a two-tone steel-and-yellow-gold, 36 mm watch that continued through the 1990s, with sapphire crystal and Caliber 3135. Its guide also lists the 16234. Compare the exact watch’s materials, dial, and bracelet; the 16233 description should not be applied automatically to a different reference.
Best Value
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Yacht-Master 16628 and 16622
For a more opulent, nautical look, Bob’s Watches traces the Yacht-Master to the all-gold 16628 and says the steel-and-platinum 16622 followed in 1999. Its guide gives 100 m water resistance for the Yacht-Master versus 300 m for the Submariner. These chronology and specification details come from a retailer’s editorial guide; verify them against reference-specific documentation when they matter to a purchase.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Keep the decade boundary and later releases straight
Some selections cross the calendar boundary: the Explorer 14270 was announced in 1989, while Fratello dates the GMT-Master 16700 to a run ending in 1999. A watch’s production year and a model’s introduction date are different facts, so verify the particular example rather than treating every model on a 1990s shortlist as a watch made between 1990 and 1999.
The green-bezel Submariner 16610LV is not a 1990s release. Rolex dates its introduction to 2003, marking the Submariner’s 50th anniversary. Rolex’s Submariner history provides that chronology. Do not confuse a later anniversary model with the 1990s 16610.
Quick Recap
What to verify before buying
- Match the claimed reference to the watch. Check the reference and production-year claims against documentation and the watch itself; a model name alone is not proof.
- Confirm the configuration. Verify the movement-era details, date or no-date layout, bezel, dial, case material, and bracelet for the claimed reference.
- Assess the individual example. Review originality, visible condition, service history, and available documentation. Ask an independent watchmaker to examine a high-value pre-owned watch.
- Evaluate the seller and price separately. Check seller reliability and compare current, geographically relevant offers for comparable condition and configuration. The prices in Fratello’s 2021 guide are historical snapshots, not present-day fair-value estimates.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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