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First Look: The Bulgari Tubogas Manchette 104093, a Gem-Set Gold Cuff Watch

Bulgari’s 2026 Tubogas Manchette revives a 1974 cuff-watch design with a colorful gemstone setting, yellow-gold Tubogas construction and an automatic Lady Solotempo movement.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The 2026 Bulgari Tubogas Manchette is a high-jewelry cuff watch that pairs the Maison’s flexible Tubogas design with a square watch and a vivid mix of gemstones. Bulgari presents it as a contemporary return to an archival 1974 design; Monochrome Watches identifies the new watch as reference 104093 and reports a 50-hour power reserve for its automatic movement.

What is the Bulgari Tubogas Manchette?

It is a yellow-gold cuff watch built around a small, square watch case integrated into a broad, single-coil Tubogas bracelet. Bulgari describes the 2026 model as a revisit of an archival design from 1974, whose geometry paired a square dial with a wide bracelet. That is a design reference, not a claim that every detail of the new gemstone-set watch appeared in the original.

Bulgari’s official LVMH Watch Week 2026 release calls it “embracing the wrist like a ribbon of yellow gold.” The phrase captures the cuff’s sculptural, jewelry-first presence: the bracelet is the dominant form, with the time display integrated into it rather than presented as a conventional round watch on a strap.

Gemstones, case and bracelet

The setting brings together citrines, rubellites, peridots, amethysts, topazes and spessartites, alongside diamonds. Bulgari describes the colorful stones as flowing across the bracelet; Monochrome Watches reports a pavé dial and a diamond-set bezel.

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According to Monochrome’s 2026 first look, the watch case measures 16 mm and is integrated into a 135 mm-long yellow-gold cuff. Its specification listing also notes a yellow-gold crown and transparent caseback. The 135 mm figure is a stated bracelet length, not a sizing range; the cited description does not establish adjustability or fit guidance.

How the Tubogas bracelet is made

The 2026 Manchette’s bracelet uses a modern construction that should not be confused with the older Tubogas technique. Bulgari says each ring in this version is individually moulded and polished, then assembled onto a titanium blade. The blade supports the flexible structure, allowing the set stones to continue across the bracelet.

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In its Tubogas: The Quest for Flexibility heritage account, Bulgari describes the traditional method differently: two long metal ribbons are wrapped around a removable core, with their raised edges interlocking without solder. The core is then removed or dissolved. The brand cautions that the technique’s exact beginnings cannot be dated precisely; it points to known examples from the second half of the 19th century and Bulgari’s adoption of Tubogas from the 1940s onward.

Movement and reported specifications

The watch is powered by Bulgari’s Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100. Monochrome reports a 50-hour power reserve and 102 components. Its article gives conflicting diameter figures for the calibre—19 mm in the body text and 26 mm in the specification block—so neither figure should be treated as established without confirmation from a primary technical document.

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Detail Reported information
Reference 104093, identified by Monochrome Watches in 2026
Case 16 mm diameter; yellow gold, according to Monochrome Watches
Bracelet 135 mm length; yellow gold, according to Monochrome Watches
Display Hours and minutes, according to Monochrome Watches
Movement Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100, identified by Bulgari and Monochrome Watches
Power reserve 50 hours, as reported by Monochrome Watches
Components 102, as reported by Monochrome Watches
Reported price EUR 194,000, as published by Monochrome Watches in January 2026; not a live or region-specific quote

How the 2026 watch relates to Tubogas history

Tubogas is broader than this single cuff watch. Bulgari’s heritage account places flexible, hose-like metal chains in a 19th-century industrial design context and describes the technique as a foundation for multiple Bulgari designs from the 1940s onward. The first coiled Serpenti Tubogas bracelet-watch appeared in 1948, according to the brand. That date belongs to the broader Serpenti Tubogas history, not to the Manchette itself.

The Manchette’s specific archival connection is the 1974 design cited in Bulgari’s 2026 release. The new model combines that reference’s square-dial, wide single-coil geometry with a contemporary gemstone setting and the Lady Solotempo automatic movement.

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Price and availability

Monochrome Watches reported a retail price of EUR 194,000 in its January 2026 article. That is a publication-time figure, not a confirmed current price; retail pricing and availability may vary by market and date. Check with Bulgari or an authorized retailer for a current regional quote.

The reference number 104093 is useful when asking a retailer about this specific watch. No marketplace listing, seller authorization or marketplace price is established by the sources cited here.

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