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What makes this L.U.C 1860 distinctive?
Its restraint comes from the contrast between a conventional round dress-watch silhouette and unusually elaborate details: a hand-guilloché dial made from 18-carat yellow gold, a flying tourbillon at six o’clock and a sapphire display back concealed beneath a hinged cover. The cover’s inside is engraved with a beehive motif. Chopard describes the case and dial as ethical 18-carat yellow gold.
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Monochrome Watches describes the dial’s central pattern as basket-weave inspired, with a satin-brushed chapter ring and applied faceted markers. The resulting effect is not a claim of objectively measurable discretion; it is an editorial reading of the watch’s modest diameter and traditional form against its visible mechanical and decorative complexity.
Case, dial and dimensions
The case measures 36.5 mm in diameter. Its thickness is reported inconsistently: Chopard’s product-page narrative says 8.2 mm, while the specification table lists 7.70 mm; Monochrome also reports 8.2 mm. Because those figures do not agree, the precise thickness should be confirmed with Chopard if it is important to a purchase or fit decision.
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Chopard lists water resistance at 30 metres. That is a modest rating, not an indication that this dress watch is suited to swimming or diving. The watch is fitted with a green-black hand-sewn alligator strap and an ethical 18-carat yellow-gold pin buckle.
How the flying tourbillon and movement work
Inside is Chopard’s automatic L.U.C 96.24-L calibre, which the brand says is developed, produced and assembled in its Haute Horlogerie workshops. It is wound by a 22-carat gold micro-rotor. Chopard’s Twin technology uses two stacked, coaxial barrels to provide an approximately 65-hour power reserve.
The movement is 3.30 mm thick, runs at 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour) and contains 189 parts and 25 jewels, according to Chopard. The watch displays hours and minutes; its seconds are shown on the tourbillon carriage, which turns within the aperture at six o’clock. It also has stop seconds, allowing the seconds display to halt during time-setting.
Monochrome explains that a flying tourbillon is supported from below rather than held by an upper bridge, leaving the rotating mechanism more open to view. That construction is why the complication is especially visible from the dial side here.
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Chopard identifies the L.U.C 96.24-L as COSC-certified and says the watch bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. These are distinct credentials: COSC certification concerns chronometer performance, while the Poinçon de Genève is the quality hallmark named by Chopard. The reference is limited to 10 pieces.
Where it sits in the L.U.C story
Monochrome places the L.U.C line’s origins alongside Chopard’s first in-house calibre, 1.96, presented in 1996, and notes that the flying-tourbillon movement was introduced in 2019. Chopard presents reference 161990-0001 as bringing calibre 96.24-L into the proportions of the historic L.U.C 1860. The result connects the collection’s dress-watch heritage with a modern tourbillon movement.
Price and availability
Monochrome Watches reported a retail price of EUR 144,000 in its June 3, 2024 first look. That is a dated report, not a current quote or a universal market price. Chopard’s product page directs prospective buyers to contact an ambassador or boutique and notes that availability changes frequently; it does not establish current price or stock in every market.
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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