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Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Fratello’s five picks are the Submariner references 5513, 1680, 14060/14060M, 16610LV and 1680/8. They are editorial favorites—not a universal ranking or a live guide to watch prices. The right choice depends on whether you want a no-date or date model, a particular dial or bezel, steel or gold, and how much condition and originality matter to you.
Rolex launched the Submariner in 1953, initially guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres (330 feet), and its rotatable bezel was designed to help divers track immersion time. The Submariner Date followed in 1969. Rolex’s Submariner overview supplies that family history; the reference-by-reference preferences and estimates below are from Jorg Weppelink’s Fratello article published May 2, 2025.
How to read Fratello’s five picks
The list is a set of team favorites chosen as relatively attainable alternatives to rare, highly sought-after collector watches. It is not exhaustive, and its prices are approximate euro estimates from May 2, 2025—not current October 2026 market data or guaranteed asking prices. Condition, dial, originality and service needs can make two watches of the same reference very different purchases.
| Reference | What distinguishes it | Fratello’s May 2025 estimate |
|---|---|---|
| 5513 | Vintage, no-date steel Submariner; several dial eras | From about €10,000 for a matte-dial example; up to €50,000 for excellent condition or special dials |
| 1680 | First Submariner Date; red- or white-text versions | White text just below €10,000; Red Sub around €15,000; rarer dials or excellent examples toward €30,000 |
| 14060 / 14060M | Later no-date option; the M brought a movement update | 14060 roughly €7,000 at the low end; good-condition examples under €10,000 were described as attainable |
| 16610LV | 50th-anniversary model with green bezel and Maxi Dial | Near €10,000 at the low end; up to €18,000 for top-condition examples with box and papers; some examples below €14,000–€15,000 |
| 1680/8 | Full-gold Submariner Date, with blue or black dial and bezel | 1680/8 and 16808 a little above €20,000 at the low end; top examples as high as three times that; examples between €20,000 and €30,000 were described as findable |
These figures are Fratello’s editorial estimates, not market-wide statistics. The article does not establish current availability or the value of any specific watch.
#1 Best Overall
- Pre-Loved Condition: Excellent; Light scratching and tarnishing throughout hardware
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1. Rolex Submariner 5513: the no-date vintage favorite
Fratello’s collective favorite is the 5513, whose appeal in the article is its balanced dial and two lines of text, compared with most 5512 dials. The reference was introduced in 1962 and produced until 1989, according to Fratello.
Three broad dial eras
- Gilt, 1962 to about 1967: the early dial type; Fratello notes that gilt examples generally cost more.
- Matte, 1967 to 1984: the era behind the article’s approximate €10,000 starting estimate.
- Glossy, 1984 to 1989: later dials with white-gold surrounds around the hour markers and luminous material replacing earlier painted lume plots.
Fratello says the 5513 initially used caliber 1530 and later caliber 1520, with the latter increasing the beat rate from 18,000 to 19,800 vibrations per hour. These movement details and the dial chronology are the article’s account rather than independently confirmed reference-specific Rolex archival claims.
2. Rolex Submariner 1680: the date-and-cyclops vintage option
The 1680 is the first Submariner reference with a date window, introduced in 1969. Rolex independently dates the Submariner Date to that year. The 1680 has a 40 mm steel case, a Cyclops magnifier over the date and a higher-profile crystal than the no-date 5512 and 5513, according to Fratello.
Red text or white text
Fratello dates red “Submariner” text to the period through 1975, with white text following from 1976 to 1979. Its May 2025 estimates were just below €10,000 for white-text watches, around €15,000 for a Red Sub, and up to about €30,000 for rarer dials or excellent examples. Those are dated editorial estimates, not current valuations.
The article identifies automatic caliber 1575, running at 19,800 vibrations per hour with a 48-hour power reserve, across the 1680 production run.
3. Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M: a later no-date choice
Fratello presents the 14060 as the 5513’s successor, introduced in 1989. The 14060M arrived in 2001 with a movement update and continued until the 114060 appeared in 2012. Both keep the no-date design; Fratello highlights the appeal of the two-line dial and, on some early examples, tritium lume.
According to Fratello, tritium gave way to LumiNova in 1998 and Super-LumiNova in 2000. These lume-transition dates are the article’s reference-specific account. Fratello called the 14060 the most affordable watch in its five-model set, estimating roughly €7,000 at the low end and describing good-condition examples below €10,000 as attainable in May 2025.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.4. Rolex Submariner 16610LV: the green-bezel anniversary model
Rolex identifies the 16610LV as a 2003 anniversary model, with a green anodized aluminium bezel insert and black lacquer dial. Fratello says it remained in production through 2010 and points to the green bezel and “Maxi Dial,” whose hour markers have larger surrounds, as its defining features. The article also notes Super-LumiNova, solid end links and caliber 3135, and describes five slightly different bezel and dial designs over the production span.
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Fratello’s May 2025 estimate began near €10,000, with top-condition examples accompanied by box and papers reaching €18,000. It also suggested some examples could be found below €14,000–€15,000. These are historical estimates, not evidence of current listings or prices.
5. Rolex Submariner 1680/8: the full-gold selection
The 1680/8 is the full-gold version of the first Submariner Date, produced from 1969 to 1979 according to Fratello. It came with blue or black dial and bezel; the article notes that blue versions can develop substantial color variation over time.
Fratello names caliber 1575, with a 19,800-vibrations-per-hour beat rate and 48-hour power reserve. It contrasts the later 16808, which uses caliber 3035 at 28,800 vibrations per hour. In May 2025, the article estimated full-gold 1680/8 and 16808 watches at a little above €20,000 at the low end, with top examples reaching three times that level; it said examples between €20,000 and €30,000 could be found. The range is attributed to Fratello and does not establish today’s market or availability.
Which one fits your priorities?
- Prefer a classic no-date dial? Compare the 5513’s vintage dial eras with the later 14060/14060M.
- Want a date display and magnifier? The 1680 is the vintage steel choice here; the 1680/8 combines the date model with a full-gold case and bracelet.
- Want a green bezel? The 16610LV is the anniversary variant in this selection.
- Care most about a specific look? Compare the 5513 dial era, 1680 text color, and the 16610LV’s bezel and dial variation. A reference name alone does not establish which exact dial or components a particular watch has.
- Comparing prices? Weigh the asking price against condition, originality, documentation and service needs; do not treat Fratello’s May 2025 estimates as live quotes.
What to check before buying a vintage example
Fratello advises buying from reputable dealers or doing substantial homework before committing to a vintage Submariner. For a specific watch, establish its reference and configuration, inspect the dial and bezel, and ask for documentation and service history. A seller’s description or papers alone should not be treated here as proof of originality; no individual listing or seller has been authenticated for this article.
Rolex says every Official Rolex Jeweler and Rolex affiliate is authorized to receive a Rolex watch for servicing. That gives owners an official service route, but service access does not itself verify a second-hand listing or establish a watch’s originality. See Rolex’s servicing procedure.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
