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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu: Maxime Plescia-Büchi’s Geometry, Editions and Sapphire Specs

How Maxime Plescia-Büchi's Sang Bleu geometry reshapes Hublot's barrel-cased Spirit of Big Bang, from the 2023 editions to the 2024 sapphire model.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is the third Hublot collaboration with tattoo artist and designer Maxime Plescia-Büchi, founder of Sang Bleu. It applies his geometric design language to the Spirit of Big Bang’s barrel-shaped case. It came in 2023 as titanium, All Black ceramic, King Gold and diamond-set versions. In 2024 Hublot added a sapphire edition, reference 648.JX.0102.RT.MXM24. This article is based on Hublot’s own announcements, not on a personal hands-on review. Every specification and design claim below is Hublot’s or the designer’s, and is attributed that way.

Where this watch sits in the Hublot–Sang Bleu story

Hublot’s chronology of the partnership has three steps: Big Bang Sang Bleu (2016), Big Bang Sang Bleu II (2019) and Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu (2023). The first two used the round Big Bang case. The third moves the collaboration onto the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang, which Hublot says launched in 2014. In April 2024 Hublot described its sapphire creation as the first sapphire version of the collaboration.

What “postmodern geometry” means on this watch

“Postmodern geometry” is an editorial shorthand here, not a formal art-historical label Hublot uses. What you can point to on the watch is concrete: overlapping geometric motifs, faceted surfaces, stretched and elongated bevels, and angular, disc-like hands over a skeletonized dial.

The barrel case as a base

Hublot says the Spirit of Big Bang keeps the Big Bang’s recognizable codes. For the 2023 Sang Bleu version, it lists six H-shaped titanium screws through the bezel, a layered construction, signature lugs and a rubber-overmoulded screw-down crown.

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What Plescia-Büchi changed

According to Hublot’s April 19, 2023 announcement, he reworked the case lines with elongated bevelled features and measured angles. Geometry and symmetry, the signature of the collaboration, run from case to bezel. Geometric disc hands carry the same language onto the dial. Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe summed up the idea: “Without losing what makes our barrel watch so distinctive, he gives it a new identity, a spatial redesign and a more architectural dimension, revealed by the Sang Bleu geometry and symmetry.”

From tattoo to watch

In Hublot’s April 9, 2024 announcement, Plescia-Büchi said: “While every design is produced using a similar approach, transposing the principles of my tattooing across to Hublot’s specific watchmaking space, the result is different every time, as it is applied to a different base.” Read it as a description of his method. It doesn’t claim that tattooing and watchmaking are technically equivalent. It does explain why the Spirit version looks different from the earlier round-case watches: the base shape changed, so the geometry did too.

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The 2023 collection

Hublot’s 2023 announcement lists a 42 mm case and these editions:

  • Titanium: limited to 200 pieces.
  • All Black ceramic: limited to 200 pieces.
  • King Gold: limited to 100 pieces.
  • Titanium and King Gold with pavé diamonds: one version in each material, each set with 180 diamonds.

These are the 2023 quantities. They don’t apply to the sapphire watch.

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The 2024 sapphire edition: specifications

The following are brand-published figures from Hublot’s April 9, 2024 announcement. They haven’t been independently measured or tested.

Item Specification
Reference 648.JX.0102.RT.MXM24
Size 42 mm
Case and bezel Polished sapphire crystal
Dial Sapphire crystal
Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance 50 m / 5 ATM
Movement HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph
Power reserve 50 hours
Strap White transparent smooth rubber
Clasp Titanium deployant buckle

The practical reading: a transparent case, bezel and dial pair naturally with a skeleton movement, so the geometry is defined by structure and facets rather than by colour. At 50 m, the water resistance is modest for a sport-styled chronograph. Treat it as protection against splashes, not as a dive rating.

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2023 versions versus the 2024 sapphire

Axis 2023 collection 2024 sapphire
Materials Titanium, All Black ceramic, King Gold, plus diamond-set titanium and King Gold Sapphire crystal case, bezel and dial
Size 42 mm 42 mm
Edition quantity 200 / 200 / 100, plus the 180-diamond versions (count not stated here) Not stated in the announcement used for this article
Water resistance, movement, reserve, strap Not compared here; only the 2024 figures are established in the sources used 50 m; HUB4700; 50 hours; white transparent rubber

Don’t assume the 2023 models share the sapphire watch’s movement, reserve or water resistance. Check the reference-specific sheet from Hublot before comparing.

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Buying considerations

Current pricing, availability and resale values for any of these references aren’t established here and change often. For a watch at this level, confirm the exact reference with an authorized Hublot retailer. For the sapphire model, that reference is 648.JX.0102.RT.MXM24. Hublot lists the white transparent strap as part of the watch, but whether it is sold separately, or whether other straps fit, isn’t established, so don’t assume generic straps are compatible.

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The Bottom Line

The Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is best understood as Sang Bleu’s geometry adapted to a barrel case, not simply a recolour. The 2023 titanium, ceramic, gold and diamond-set editions explore it in solid materials. The 2024 sapphire version, as Hublot presents it, strips the idea down to transparent facets over a skeleton chronograph. Which suits you comes down to whether you want the weight and colour of the 2023 models or the see-through structure of the sapphire.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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