The Dirty Dozen are twelve wartime wristwatch executions commissioned for British forces and marked “W.W.W.” (“Wrist Watch Waterproof”). A December 2022 Fratello spotlight compared pre-owned Record, Longines, and IWC examples; their differences in case, dial, condition, and estimated production show why the name covers a family of watches rather than one uniform model. Its seller offers and prices are historical snapshots, not current listings or valuations.
What are the Dirty Dozen watches?
In its December 23, 2022 article, Fratello describes a British Ministry of Defence commission for wristwatches late in World War II. The watches carried the marking W.W.W., expanded in the article as “Wrist Watch Waterproof.” The stated requirements included a waterproof case (using the terminology of the time), black dial, small-seconds subdial, luminous material, and acrylic crystal.
Fratello says thirteen companies were asked to supply watches, but all except Enicar delivered. The twelve resulting executions are commonly known as the Dirty Dozen:
- Buren
- Cyma
- Eterna
- Grana
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Lemania
- Longines
- IWC
- Omega
- Record
- Timor
- Vertex
This history and the specifications here reflect Fratello’s account; they are not independently verified historical findings.
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- Black Dial Design: Black dial with full Arabic numerals pairs with a green fabric slip-thru strap that changes in seconds
- Adjustable Strap: A comfortable band fits securely up to an 8-inch wrist circumference for everyday wear, day in and day out
- Indiglo Backlight: A push of the button illuminates the dial and luminous hands in the dark, day or night, rain or shine
- All-Weather Durability: A mineral glass crystal and water resistance to 50 meters keep this field watch ready for daily wear
- Built to Last: A Timex watch is designed for durability and everyday reliability; every piece reflects our commitment to quality without compromise
How the three pre-owned examples compare
Fratello’s examples are not interchangeable: they vary in dimensions, case material, dial and hand details, visible wear, and estimated production. The table preserves the details and asking prices reported in December 2022. Prices and dealer availability have not been established as current.
| Example | Case and details | Condition noted | Estimated production reported by Fratello | December 2022 asking price and seller |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Record | Roughly 36 mm; dial with a flat-topped 4 and open 9 | Chrome-plated case wear, faded dial, and lume issues | About 25,000 watches, an estimate reported by Fratello | £1,250 at Stephen Hughes Fine Watches, England |
| Longines | 37.5 mm steel case; cathedral-style hands | Not stated in Fratello’s article | About 8,000 watches, an estimate reported by Fratello | HK$59,980 at The Horologist Company Limited, Hong Kong |
| IWC Mark 10/Mark X | 35 mm; oversized seconds subdial and cut-off 5 and 7 | Not stated in Fratello’s article | About 5,000 watches, an estimate reported by Fratello | £6,950 at Watches of Knightsbridge, England |
All dimensions, production figures, condition observations, sellers, and prices in the table are as reported by Fratello in December 2022. The production numbers are estimates, not independently validated counts. Fratello also reported estimated production of about 25,000 Omega watches and 1,000–5,000 Grana watches.
Rank #2
- Cream Dial Design: Cream dial with full Arabic numerals pairs with an adjustable green fabric strap for a rugged, outdoor look
- Adjustable Strap: A comfortable band fits securely up to an 8-inch wrist circumference for everyday wear, day in and day out
- Indiglo Backlight: A push of the button illuminates the dial and luminous hands in the dark, day or night, rain or shine
- All-Weather Durability: A mineral glass crystal and water resistance to 50 meters keep this field watch ready for daily wear
- Built to Last: A Timex watch is designed for durability and everyday reliability; every piece reflects our commitment to quality without compromise
What to look at when comparing a Dirty Dozen watch
The spotlight’s comparisons point to practical distinctions for anyone assessing a pre-owned example. Start with the individual watch rather than assuming that a shared Dirty Dozen identity means shared condition or value.
- Case: Compare the stated dimensions and material, then examine wear. The Record example, for instance, was described with wear to its chrome plating.
- Dial and hands: Note distinctive details such as the Record’s flat-topped 4 and open 9, the Longines’s cathedral-style hands, or the IWC’s oversized seconds subdial and cut-off numerals.
- Luminous material and overall condition: Look for the kind of issues Fratello noted on the Record, including lume problems and a faded dial. The article does not give comparable condition descriptions for the Longines or IWC examples.
- Rarity claims: Treat production figures as attributed estimates. The article’s numbers offer a comparison, not proof of an individual watch’s authenticity, originality, or present-day scarcity.
What the 2022 prices do—and do not—tell you
The listed amounts were asking prices attached to named sellers in England and Hong Kong in December 2022. They do not establish what those watches later sold for, what comparable watches cost today, or whether any seller still has the same watch. For a current purchase decision, confirm live availability and price directly with the seller and assess the specific watch’s condition and details; the historical listings alone cannot serve as a current valuation.
Rank #3
- ⌚ MENS WATCHES ANALOG: Mens military watches made with shock-resistant stainless steel case and anti-scratch mineral window, exquisitely crafted and durable. Men's watch strap width: 22mm / 0.86 inches, stainless steel case: 42mm / 1.65 inches.
- ⌚ MILITARY WATCHES FOR MEN: This mens field watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, with a comfortable double nylon strap, will suitable for personal use and as good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday , the father's day , Christmas .
- ⌚3 ATM WATERPROOF MILITARY WATCHES: 30M waterproof, sweat-proof, rain-proof and hand-washing for daily life, no problem. But NOT suitable for swimming, bathing, diving or touch hot water. Perfect for most of indoor / outdoor sports.
- ⌚ EASY TO READ TIME: 12 / 24 hrs military time and luminous dial. The mens watches equipped with date calendar can tell you the time quickly and accurately. Come with luminous function, easy to read the time even in the dark.
- ⌚ PURCHASE WITHOUT WORRY: Japan imported quartz analog movement and battery, long-term operation. for 1 years,24-hour customer service is at your service.
A collector’s historical perspective
Thomas Van Straaten closes the Fratello article with a reflection on the watches’ wartime associations: “These are no status symbols or fashion statements. These are a silent nod to the brave people who gave their lives for our freedom.” That is the author’s perspective, not an official statement, but it captures why the Dirty Dozen can matter to collectors beyond their design differences.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- ⌚ MENS WATCHES ANALOG: Mens military watches made with shock-resistant stainless steel case and anti-scratch mineral window, exquisitely crafted and durable. Men's watch strap width: 22mm / 0.86 inches, stainless steel case: 42mm / 1.65 inches.
- ⌚ MILITARY WATCHES FOR MEN: This mens field watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, with a comfortable double nylon strap, will suitable for personal use and good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday , the father's day , Christmas .
- ⌚3 ATM WATERPROOF MILITARY WATCHES: 30M waterproof, sweat-proof, rain-proof and hand-washing for daily life, no problem. But NOT suitable for swimming, bathing, diving or touch hot water. Perfect for most of indoor / outdoor sports.
- ⌚ EASY TO READ TIME: 12 / 24 hrs military time and luminous dial. The mens watches equipped with date calendar can tell you the time quickly and accurately. Come with luminous function, easy to read the time even in the dark.
- ⌚ PURCHASE WITHOUT WORRY: Japan imported quartz analog movement and battery, long-term operation. for 1 years,24-hour customer service is at your service.
Rank #4
- STEALTH TACTICAL DESIGN: Embrace the elite "all-black" aesthetic with this stealth military watch. Featuring a matte black case and a high-contrast dial with bold white numerals, it delivers a professional, heavy-duty look that punches far above its price point. Perfect for tactical enthusiasts and those who prefer a low-profile, rugged style.
- PRECISION 12/24H MILITARY TIME: Designed for mission-critical clarity. This analog watch features the Miyota 2105 Japanese Movement,a dual-dial display (12H and 24H military time) and a quick-read Day-Date calendar (English/Spanish). It’s an essential tool for EMS, security professionals, and night-shift workers who need instant, error-free timekeeping.
- REINFORCED FOR DAILY WORK: Engineered as a reliable "beater watch" for the worksite. Protected by a tough stainless steel case back and an anti-scratch mineral window, this field watch is built to withstand the rigors of construction, industrial work, and outdoor sports. The red-tipped second hand provides precise tracking for tactical needs.
- LIGHTWEIGHT & ADJUSTABLE COMFORT: Featuring a premium 22mm black nylon slip-thru strap, this tactical watch is designed for all-day breathability and comfort. Unlike heavy metal bands, it won't weigh you down during intense activity. The adjustable strap fits a wide range of wrist sizes, up to a 9-inch circumference.
- 5ATM WATER RESISTANT (LIFE-PROOF): Rated for 50M (5ATM) resistance, it easily handles rain, sweat, and hand-washing. To ensure longevity and prevent fogging, avoid exposure to hot water, steam, or high-pressure swimming. Comes in an original box, making it a high-value gift for birthdays, veterans, or any man who appreciates a functional, rugged timepiece.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
