IWC introduced the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph IW394009 on 3 July 2025. Limited to 100 pieces, it pairs a 43.5 mm 18-carat Armor Gold case with an Obsidian-coloured dial and three complications: a flying minute tourbillon, a retrograde date and a flyback chronograph. IWC’s announcement gives the watch’s power reserve as 68 hours; it does not state a price or current availability.
What is the IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold?
IW394009 is a limited-edition Portugieser combining a tourbillon, a retrograde date display and a flyback chronograph. IWC’s 3 July 2025 launch announcement describes a 43.5 mm case in 18-carat Armor Gold, an Obsidian-coloured dial and a black Santoni alligator leather strap with an Armor Gold folding clasp. The edition is limited to 100 pieces. IWC Schaffhausen’s launch announcement is the primary source for these details.
IWC says Armor Gold has an improved microstructure that gives it “significantly better hardness values than conventional gold alloys.” That is the manufacturer’s comparison; its announcement does not provide a numerical hardness test result.
What do the three complications do?
Flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
A tourbillon is a rotating cage that houses parts of the escapement. IWC says the cage in IW394009 carries the pallet lever and escape wheel and rotates once per minute. The company explains that this rotation reduces gravity’s effects on the oscillating system and contributes to a more precise rate; it should not be read as a guarantee of accuracy in everyday wear. IWC gives the cage’s weight as 0.675 grams and its construction as 56 parts. The integrated stop mechanism can halt the tourbillon to let the wearer set the time to the second.
#1 Best Overall
- Global warming accelerates glacial melting, causing severe ecological damage to Earth. Inspired by “Never-Melting Ice,” Agelocer's Swiss Chief Designer Etienne Ruffieux grand launch this full sapphire case free-sprung balance flying tourbillon watch, urging awareness of climate change. Honored with the 2022 German Design Award for its exceptional design, this tourbillon is globally limited to 100 pieces.
- The entire watch case is crafted from 5N (99.999%) high-purity sapphire crystal; 5N-grade sapphire crystal boasts a Mohs 9 hardness rating (second only to diamond) and exceptional transparency. Its superior hardness renders the case scratch and wear resistant, ensuring a flawless, long-lasting finish that stands the test of time. High transparency enables us to clearly appreciate the mechanical artistry of the ultimate skeletonized flying tourbillon.
- Self developed design CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations/hour, 25 ruby bearings. Satin brushed finish and chamfered edges with premium finishing techniques; Brand logo engraved and gold foiled. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
- The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically found only in luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
- 50M water resistance for the entire watch; food-grade semi-transparent silicone strap, water/sweat/corrosion resistant, comfortable and durable to wear. Super-LumiNova luminous hands, paired with a butterfly double-press clasp. We promise a three-year global warranty service.
Retrograde date at 9 o’clock
Rather than making a full circle, the date hand travels along an arc marked 1 through 31. After reaching the end of the scale, it jumps back to the start for the next month. IWC’s launch announcement does not say that the date automatically accounts for shorter months, so the wearer should not assume it never needs correction.
Flyback chronograph with a combined hours-and-minutes totaliser at 12 o’clock
A chronograph measures elapsed time. With the flyback function, IWC says a press of the chronograph button while timing is underway resets the chronograph hands to zero and immediately begins a new timing interval. Stopped chronograph hours and minutes are shown together in the totaliser at 12 o’clock.
Rank #2
- This tourbillon crafted by Swiss chief designer Etienne Ruffieux with modern architectural aesthetics, features a lightweight, comfortable, free-sprung balance flying tourbillon. It houses an independently developed architectural tourbillon movement adorned with oversized ruby bearings. The design aesthetic is expressed through the interplay of light and shadow created by its extreme skeletonization. The watch has been honored with the IAI Global Design Award for its outstanding original design.
- Independently developed CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations per hour, 25 ruby bearings. Features high-end finishing including satin brushing and beveled edges, engraved brand logo with gold-stamped. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
- The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically reserved for luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
- This tourbillon measures 40mm in diameter and just 9.7mm in thickness, weighing a mere 67 grams. Its meticulously engineered structure and radically skeletonized tourbillon movement eliminate all superfluous metal components, allowing the mechanical artistry of the free-sprung flying tourbillon to shine in its purest form. It is an exquisite, high-end tourbillon watch that is both ultra-thin and supremely comfortable.
- The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, featuring a double-sided sapphire crystal and an Italian leather strap with hand-stitched detailing for comfortable and durable wear. We offer a three-year worldwide warranty.
What movement and dial details does IWC publish?
The automatic IWC-manufactured calibre 89900 has 375 components and a stated 68-hour power reserve in IW394009. A solid-gold oscillating mass can be seen through the sapphire-glass case back. IWC describes the Obsidian-coloured dial as the result of 60 individual steps and 15 transparent lacquer layers; the process and resulting visual depth are the manufacturer’s descriptions.
Some specifications published for a related Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph must not be assumed to apply to IW394009. IWC’s EU product page for reference IW394005, accessed 8 October 2026, identifies that reference as having a blue dial and lists a 15.9 mm case height, 3 bar water resistance, 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and 42 jewels. Those are IW394005 page specifications, not figures established for IW394009. IWC’s IW394005 product page keeps that reference distinction clear.
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Rank #3
- This tourbillon crafted by Swiss chief designer Etienne Ruffieux with modern architectural aesthetics, features a lightweight, comfortable, free-sprung balance flying tourbillon. It houses an independently developed architectural tourbillon movement adorned with oversized ruby bearings. The design aesthetic is expressed through the interplay of light and shadow created by its extreme skeletonization. The watch has been honored with the IAI Global Design Award for its outstanding original design.
- Independently developed CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations per hour, 25 ruby bearings. Features high-end finishing including satin brushing and beveled edges, engraved brand logo with gold-stamped. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
- The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically reserved for luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
- This tourbillon measures 40mm in diameter and just 9.7mm in thickness, weighing a mere 67 grams. Its meticulously engineered structure and radically skeletonized tourbillon movement eliminate all superfluous metal components, allowing the mechanical artistry of the free-sprung flying tourbillon to shine in its purest form. It is an exquisite, high-end tourbillon watch that is both ultra-thin and supremely comfortable.
- The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, featuring a double-sided sapphire crystal and an Italian leather strap with hand-stitched detailing for comfortable and durable wear. We offer a three-year worldwide warranty.
How much is IW394009, and is it available?
IWC’s cited launch announcement establishes the 100-piece edition size but does not state a price or current availability. The available official product-page information cited here is for the different reference IW394005, so it cannot establish the price or stock status of IW394009. Check with IWC or an authorized retailer for current market-specific information.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Precision Engineering with Flying Tourbillon⌚The AGELOCER men's watch 9101K10 features a suspension-free flying tourbillon and 360° rotating escapement, counteracting gravity for enhanced accuracy. The self-developed manual movement ensures reliable timekeeping.
- Striking Skeleton Dial & Durability⌚Enjoy the double-sided transparent hollow design, revealing the intricate 25 ruby-bearing movement. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and 316L stainless steel case offer long-lasting elegance.
- Comfortable & Stylish Wear⌚The soft rubber strap (22mm width) and 316L steel pin buckle provide a secure fit for wrists 6.5"-8.7" (165-220mm). At just 10mm thick, it’s sleek yet robust.
- 80-Hour Power Reserve & Night Visibility⌚With an 80-hour kinetic energy reserve, this mechanical watch keeps running longer. The luminous hands ensure readability in low light.
- Panoramic Back for Mechanical Beauty⌚The 32mm transparent back case showcases the fine-polished movement and Incabloc shock absorber—a masterpiece for watch enthusiasts.
Rank #4
- This tourbillon designed by Swiss chief designer Etienne Ruffieux with modern architectural aesthetics, features a lightweight, comfortable, free-sprung balance flying tourbillon. It houses an independently developed architectural tourbillon movement adorned with oversized ruby bearings. The design aesthetic is expressed through the interplay of light and shadow created by its extreme skeletonization. The watch has been honored with the IAI Global Design Award for its outstanding original design
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