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Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic: Matthieu Hegi on the Return of a 1988 Icon

Louis Vuitton’s 2026 Monterey Ceramic revisits the 1988 LV II with a 37 mm pebble-shaped ceramic case, graphic railway tracks and a crown at 12. Matthieu Hegi explains which design codes remain—and how the watch can be worn beyond the wrist.

By WatchRanker Team 3 min read
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Louis Vuitton’s 2026 Monterey Ceramic revisits the design language of the 1988 LV II, retaining its pebble-shaped silhouette, railway-style dial tracks and crown at 12 o’clock while giving the watch a modern ceramic case and an in-house automatic movement. Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi describes the elements that connect the new watch to Gae Aulenti’s original design—and how its detachable strap lets it be worn beyond the wrist.

A 1988 design, distinct from the 2025 Monterey

Louis Vuitton’s first wristwatches, the LV I and LV II, were designed with Italian architect Gae Aulenti in 1988. The brand’s official history identifies the 2025 Monterey as a return to the LV I and the 2026 ceramic models as a return to the LV II. The distinction matters: the ceramic watch is not simply a ceramic version of the 2025 yellow-gold revival. Louis Vuitton’s collection description traces both designs to the original pair.

The new models carry forward the family’s pebble-like, lugless form, unconventional crown position and graphic dial. Their 37 mm case is made in glossy black or forest-green ceramic. Hodinkee’s September 28, 2026 launch coverage also situates the ceramic watch within the Monterey’s design history.

What Hegi says was preserved

Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, describes the continuity between the original design and the ceramic models in Louis Vuitton Japan’s September 28, 2026 announcement. Its English translation presents his words as follows:

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“The codes revisiting the spirit of the watch designed by Gae Aulenti are identical. The railway minute and hour track, the Louis Vuitton Paris lettering forming the semi-circle, the visually powerful syringe hands, and of course, the Clou de Paris crown at 12 o’clock, which here is crafted in steel.”

The announcement says these codes are reinterpreted in a versatile statement piece intended for wear on and off the wrist. The railway-style hour and minute tracks and semicircular lettering preserve the dial’s distinctive graphic character, while the crown at 12 retains the original’s unusual placement. Louis Vuitton Japan’s announcement attributes the quotation to Hegi.

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Black or green: how the two versions differ

The cases share the same 37 mm pebble-shaped profile, but the dial treatments give the two versions different visual effects:

Version Case and dial Hands and accents Strap detail
Black Glossy black ceramic case; white lacquer dial Red and blue accents Black calfskin strap with red stitching
Green Forest-green ceramic case; tone-on-tone lacquer dial Yellow syringe hands and yellow accents Not stated in the cited descriptions

The black version emphasizes contrast, with a bright dial against the dark case. The green keeps the case and dial closer in tone, with yellow details providing the contrast. These are documented design differences, not evidence of a durability ranking or a performance advantage for either model. Louis Vuitton Canada’s collection page describes the colorways and strap details.

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Movement and wear beyond the wrist

The official collection page lists the in-house automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber. Revolution reports a 45-hour power reserve in its October 2, 2026 coverage. This is the movement specified for the current ceramic watches; it should not be confused with the movement in the original LV II. Revolution’s October 2, 2026 article provides the reserve figure and explains the strap construction.

The unusual attachment changes how the watch can be used. Revolution reports that the steel caseback supplies the elasticity needed to remove and reattach the strap. That lets the watch head be handled more like a separate object than a conventional fixed-strap watch. Louis Vuitton’s collection description also presents a leather attachment for alternate wear, including as a pendant or belt charm. The on- and off-wrist idea is therefore reflected in the construction and wearing options, not just in Hegi’s description of the design.

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Release and availability

Louis Vuitton Japan’s September 28, 2026 announcement says the ceramic models were scheduled for release on September 26, 2026, and that they join the permanent collection. That launch information is specific to the dated Japanese announcement; availability can vary by market. The cited sources do not establish current regional pricing.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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