The Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco ref. 1616 pairs the Tank’s restrained rectangular case with a vivid geometric dial. Auction catalogues describe it as a quartz-powered, sterling-silver limited edition of 1,000, associated with circa 1995 and an homage to the 1925 Paris decorative arts exhibition. It is the larger counterpart to ref. 1614, though published case measurements vary slightly.
What makes the ref. 1616 different?
Its appeal is the contrast: the Tank case is formal and spare, while the Art Deco dial supplies the color and pattern. Fratello Watches quotes vintage Cartier specialist Simon Werner describing the regular ref. 1616 Tank Must as beautiful, but saying the Art Deco dial “elevates it by far.” That is Werner’s opinion as reported by Fratello, not a Cartier statement. Fratello also notes that dial colors can patinate differently over time, with some examples taking on a more purple tone. Fratello Watches
The broader Tank story predates this edition: the Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie says the Tank Must was created in 1977 and describes the Tank Louis Cartier as faithful to the 1922 historical model and representative of what became known as Art Deco style. That context does not independently establish the 1616’s launch details. Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie
Ref. 1616 at a glance
| Detail | What the records say |
|---|---|
| Reference and model | Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco, ref. 1616. |
| Movement | Quartz, according to the cited auction catalogues; the caliber and battery type are not stated in these records. Artcurial Antiquorum, 2018 |
| Case material | 925 silver in Artcurial’s catalogue; silver in Antiquorum’s 2018 description. |
| Edition | Catalogued as a limited edition of 1,000. The cited records document individual numbered examples, not a production breakdown by size. |
| Dating and stated inspiration | Artcurial describes the edition as launched in 1995 in homage to the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts. Antiquorum dates its example circa 1995. Artcurial Antiquorum, 2018 |
| Case size | Approximately 23 × 30–31 mm for ref. 1616, depending on the catalogue. Artcurial gives 23 × 31 mm; Antiquorum and Fratello give 23 × 30 mm. Artcurial Antiquorum, 2018 Fratello Watches |
| Smaller counterpart | Fratello lists ref. 1614 at 20 × 28 mm and ref. 1616 at 23 × 30 mm. Fratello Watches |
How the 1616 compares with ref. 1614
The 1616 is the larger version in the specialist comparison. The difference is modest on paper, but case dimensions can help you decide which proportions suit your wrist and whether a particular listing is being identified correctly.
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| Reference | Published case measurement | What to keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| 1614 | 20 × 28 mm | Fratello’s published measurement for the smaller version. Fratello Watches |
| 1616 | 23 × 30 mm in Fratello and Antiquorum; 23 × 31 mm in Artcurial | These are catalogue measurements, not a single uniform specification. Compare the actual watch and listing documentation rather than expecting every source to report an identical figure. |
What to check when evaluating a vintage example
Catalogues establish the identity and details of particular watches, not the condition or originality of every ref. 1616. Review the individual watch closely and ask for documentation where a listing leaves a point unclear.
- Reference and dimensions: Check that the watch is identified as ref. 1616, and compare the stated measurements with photographs or an in-person inspection.
- Dial: Look at color, geometric pattern, legibility, and condition. Aging can change the apparent tone, so compare the actual dial rather than relying on a stock image or a color description alone.
- Case: Confirm the material description and inspect wear, edges, and signs of polishing or repair. The cited records describe silver; they do not establish a universal condition standard for surviving examples.
- Originality: Ask whether the dial, hands, crown, strap, clasp, and other parts are original or replacements, and request clear photographs of the details.
- Quartz operation and service: Confirm that the movement is working and ask for service evidence. The available catalogues do not establish a caliber, battery type, or service interval.
- Provenance and completeness: Review any available ownership history, papers, and box. Treat these as attributes of the individual offering, not guaranteed contents of the model.
What one auction result can—and cannot—tell you
Antiquorum’s May 31, 2026 listing records ref. 1616 no. 0293/1000 with a silver case, quartz movement, and leather strap, sold for HKD 31,250. That is the result for one dated lot; it is not a current price guide or evidence of a market-wide value. Condition, originality, completeness, and sale circumstances matter when comparing watches. Antiquorum, May 31, 2026
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Straps and parts: verify the individual watch
Auction records show ref. 1616 examples fitted with leather straps, and one catalogue also records a Cartier deployant clasp. The available sources do not establish universal strap dimensions or buckle compatibility. If replacing a strap, inspect the watch and measure its existing strap before buying; do not assume an arbitrary Tank strap will fit.
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