The Rémy Cools Tourbillon Souscription is a nine-watch debut series presented in 2020, distinguished by a tourbillon at six o’clock and two folding keys on the caseback that replace the usual crown. Its 40 mm steel case is notably thick at 15.5 mm, much of that height coming from a domed sapphire crystal. The historical launch price was reported as €85,000; all nine were reported sold and delivered by 2022, so that figure is not a current offer or resale estimate.
What is the Rémy Cools Tourbillon Souscription?
The Tourbillon Souscription was French watchmaker Rémy Cools’s first independent wristwatch series. His official biography says he presented it in 2020 and produced nine watches over two years. Cools studied watchmaking in Morteau, won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2018 and established his independent workshop in 2019. His biography describes an early interest in watchmaking books and vintage pieces. Rémy Cools’s official biography
The watch’s defining feature is not simply its tourbillon, but how it is operated: rather than a conventional crown, it uses two keys that fold out from the caseback. A 60-second tourbillon occupies the six o’clock position. The unusual arrangement gives the watch a distinctive, considered interaction, although the available descriptions do not establish how it feels to use or how it performs in daily wear.
How do you wind and set the Souscription?
Two flip-up keys on the caseback take the place of a standard crown. One is used to wind the watch; the other sets the time. The available coverage identifies their functions but does not provide a detailed operating sequence or handling guidance, so it is not possible to say more about the procedure without speculating. Hodinkee’s 2022 feature
#1 Best Overall
- Global warming accelerates glacial melting, causing severe ecological damage to Earth. Inspired by “Never-Melting Ice,” Agelocer's Swiss Chief Designer Etienne Ruffieux grand launch this full sapphire case free-sprung balance flying tourbillon watch, urging awareness of climate change. Honored with the 2022 German Design Award for its exceptional design, this tourbillon is globally limited to 100 pieces.
- The entire watch case is crafted from 5N (99.999%) high-purity sapphire crystal; 5N-grade sapphire crystal boasts a Mohs 9 hardness rating (second only to diamond) and exceptional transparency. Its superior hardness renders the case scratch and wear resistant, ensuring a flawless, long-lasting finish that stands the test of time. High transparency enables us to clearly appreciate the mechanical artistry of the ultimate skeletonized flying tourbillon.
- Self developed design CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations/hour, 25 ruby bearings. Satin brushed finish and chamfered edges with premium finishing techniques; Brand logo engraved and gold foiled. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
- The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically found only in luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
- 50M water resistance for the entire watch; food-grade semi-transparent silicone strap, water/sweat/corrosion resistant, comfortable and durable to wear. Super-LumiNova luminous hands, paired with a butterfly double-press clasp. We promise a three-year global warranty service.
Case, proportions and dial
Hodinkee’s 2022 coverage gives the Souscription a 40 mm stainless-steel case and a thickness of 15.5 mm. Much of that height comes from the domed sapphire crystal. The six o’clock tourbillon is the most prominent dial-side feature described in the coverage. The measurements make the watch’s vertical profile an important part of its design: it is not a slim dress-watch proposition, even though the case diameter is 40 mm. Hodinkee, 2022
Movement and independent production
Cools told Hodinkee that the Souscription movement was totally different from the one in his school watch: the components did not overlap, though the visual DNA and dial layout carried through. That distinguishes the series from a simple continuation of a student project.
Rank #2
- Dynamic wheel: FEICE Watches for Men FM666 men’s automatic watch by boasts a unique feature of a floating wheel at the 12 o’clock position, showcasing its stunning craftsmanship. （Only rely on external shaking to swing, will not swing because of the second hand walking）
- Supercar-themed design: With a 16-cylinder model on display at the 6 o’clock position, visually impressive. The 5-side skeleton design is inspired by the sleek and modern design of supercars, making it a perfect fit for car enthusiasts.（Equipped with a one-piece supercar cockpit steel case for durability）
- MOTION POWERED: The automatic movement of this watch is powered by the natural movement of the wrist, which means there is no need for batteries or winding. The watch figures are: diameter 42.5 mm, thickness 16 mm, strap width 22 mm. A very practical and good looking skeleton automatic watch with a large dial!
- Japanese Precision for Reliable Timekeeping Equipped with a Japanese automatic movement, the FM666 ensures precise and reliable timekeeping, providing both style and substance in one package.Mechanical watches must be worn at least 8 to 10 hours a day, if it does not get enough energy, please wind your watch manually by rotating the crown about 20 laps.
- Waterproof : Feice Watch For Men Automatic Watch The waterproof rating is 3 ATM, it can work in rain and some splashes, not suitable for soaking in water, such as bathing, swimming or diving.
“In-house” and “handmade” need qualification here. A WatchProSite review reports that some components for production watches arrived as rough parts or ébauches and were then finished by Cools. It distinguishes those production watches from the prototype, whose components were created by him in large majority. The evidence supports substantial hands-on finishing, but not a claim that every production component began as raw material or was made entirely in his workshop. WatchProSite review
Price, production and availability
Hodinkee reported a price of €85,000 and stated in its September 2022 feature that all nine watches had been sold and delivered. WatchProSite’s earlier coverage reported €85,000 excluding tax; the tax qualification belongs to that report, not necessarily to every market or transaction. These are historical launch-era figures, not current asking prices. Hodinkee, 2022 · WatchProSite
Rank #3
- SMALL BUDY, BUT VERSATILE:Quality brand original automatic tourbillon style relojes de hombre(watch); without a battery; calendar,waterproof, moon phase function
- LUMINOUS WATCH,EASY TO READ TIME,EVEN IN THE DARK:Fashion design men's mechanical watch, black case with clear golden lines and golden hands, let you read the time easy; The hands will be grow when in the dark, which let you can read the time even in dark
- WATER RESISTANT TO 30M:Waterproof:In general, withstands splashes or brief immersion in water ,but not suitable for hot water bathing or diving. Please do not press any buttons in the water
- NO BATTERY NEEDED:Automatic mechanical movement, Powers with the mechanical movement, without a battery. Operate the watch, to wind-up please whirl the button on the clockwise (Don't need to pull out, just in normal condition.) for 15 to 20 complete revolutions
- NICE PRESENTS:Stylish mechanical germen watch, it fits good and looks fantastic, elegant holiday present sure to be given some compliments by business colleagues and clients, friend. Also, it is nice present for your friends and family as a Father's Day present
The reported sell-through means the Souscription should be approached as a collector-market search rather than a new-production purchase. Current resale availability, prices, warranty terms and service arrangements have not been established. Anyone considering a pre-owned example would need to verify its provenance, condition, service history and terms directly with the seller or an appropriately qualified watchmaker.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How it differs from the later Tourbillon Atelier
The later Tourbillon Atelier is a separate model, not a renamed Souscription. Cools’s official site describes it as a 36-piece series measuring 39 mm by 12 mm, with a conventional crown at three o’clock. Those later-model specifications must not be attributed to the Souscription. Rémy Cools’s official site
Quick Recap
Best Value
- 【Automatic slef-wind watches for men】This unique timepiece combines both automatic and manual winding,No need to use battery, self-winding mechanical movement. The movement has 25 rubies, the frequency is 21,600 times per hour, and the energy storage is more than 40 hours.
- 【Unique Hollow Design VSkeleton flywheel, Tonneau stainless steel case,The skeletonized dial works to give you a direct view of the movement, all in stunning detail. Whether it is Father's Day, Christmas, Thanksgiving, Valentine's Day or a birthday, anniversary, wedding.This authentic watch will offer you a sparkling experience and look. A good watch is a reflection of the constant search for quality, AIMES is the best gift for a loved one or for yourself.
- 【Sapphire Crystal & 316L Stainless Steel】Equipped with a colorless anti-reflective coating sapphire mirror surface,Wear resistant, highly translucent. The sapphire has a Mohs hardness level of 9 due to the emery cold grinding process that is four times more expensive than the traditional hot bending process, making it stronger than any other natural material except diamonds. Featuring 316L stainless steel, the case is water-resistant and corrosion-resistant.
- 【Waterproof 5ATM & A-Level Super Luminous】Waterproof to 50 meters, the watch can be used for cold water, rain and swimming. Water resistance easy to handle in all life situations, no need to face the daily water environment carefully. A-Level Super luminous, allowing you to read the time in the dark. Full of bright energy, it can shine up to 4 hours. High quality 26mm silicone strap is sweat, moisture and corrosion resistant and comfortable to wear without any allergic reaction.
- 【AIMES after-sales service】If you have any questions about AIMES Watch products, please feel free to contact AIMES by clicking the store below the shopping cart. We are happy to provide you with satisfactory solutions and will reply you within 24 hours. AIMES is committed to providing our customers with excellent service and beautiful products.
Rank #4
- ⌚【Design Inspiration】This is an all-steel octagonal design with the characteristics of a classic sports adventure watch. The shape is exquisite and exquisite. Through amazing proportions, high-tech materials, and anti-magnetic structure,You can see the precise operation of each mechanical part, its unique masculine beauty injects new blood into the sports watch.
- ⌚【Unique Octagonal Design】The front of the octagonal bezel is polished with a polished and brushed process, which is resistant to scratches and presents two different metallic textures. The most classic and legendary aesthetic design has finally conquered the world as the ultimate octagonal case of sporty elegance. The 1.61inch large dial with high quality stainless steel watch band makes the watch more durable. The total length of the watch is 8.26inch.
- ⌚【Mechanical Movement】NO need to use BATTERY, but AUTOMATICE SELF-WINDING! The back of the watch adopts a back-through design, through the sapphire glass back we can clearly observe the movement beauty of the movement.The watch is equipped with a stainless steel bracelet that is comfortable to wear and has a very elegant posture. The whole is meticulously polished to bring a more refined wearing experience.
- ⌚【30M Waterproof】Daily life waterproof design which bear daily wash hand, swear,accidental rain or water splash.Please keep it away from swimming and hot water bathing in case consume the watch.(Note! Mechanical watch is different from quartz watch. Insufficient mechanical kinetic energy will cause the watch to stop, please winding it in time.)
- ⌚【Perfect Gifts】With a independently designed FORSINING watch box, is the perfect gift for yourselves or for that special and important someone. The fashion design watch can be easily matched with a variety of clothing and suitable for all occasions.
| Feature | Tourbillon Souscription | Tourbillon Atelier |
|---|---|---|
| Generation | Cools’s first independent wristwatch series, presented in 2020; nine watches produced over two years, according to his biography. | Later model; the official site describes a 36-piece series. |
| Case size | 40 mm diameter and 15.5 mm thick, as reported by Hodinkee in 2022; much of the height comes from the domed sapphire. | 39 mm diameter and 12 mm thick, according to Cools’s official site. |
| Winding and setting | Two folding caseback keys, one to wind and one to set the time; reported by Hodinkee. | Conventional crown at three o’clock, according to Cools’s official site. |
| Price | €85,000 launch-era price reported by Hodinkee in 2022; WatchProSite earlier reported €85,000 excluding tax. | Not stated in the cited official-site information. |
| Material and movement-finishing comparison | Stainless-steel case; some production components were supplied as rough parts or ébauches and finished by Cools, according to WatchProSite. | Not stated in the cited official-site information. |
What the available evidence does not establish
- No independent accuracy test or measured timekeeping result is available, so the tourbillon should not be treated as evidence of a particular accuracy level.
- Current secondary-market stock, resale prices, service costs, warranty coverage and service arrangements are unverified.
- The cited descriptions explain which key winds and which sets the watch, but do not document a complete user procedure or report hands-on operating impressions.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
