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Speedy Tuesday: A Collector’s 1985 Omega Speedmaster 145.0022

Ruby’s 1985 Speedmaster Professional 145.0022 is nicknamed “Mustache” for its dial lettering. Here’s what he values and what buyers should verify.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Ruby’s 1985 Omega Speedmaster Professional reference 145.0022 earned the nickname “Mustache” from the long “S” and “R” in its Speedmaster dial lettering. In an interview published by Fratello on August 18, 2020, he explains why he sought this 1980s model, what details matter to him, and how he found his example. Read the interview with Ruby.

Why Ruby sought a 1980s Speedmaster

Ruby’s interest in the era grew after he learned about the Omega caliber 861. He came to appreciate the design and the vintage details of the watch, rather than treating the reference as a substitute for every other Speedmaster.

His preference is personal: the features he singles out are the ones that make this example appealing to him, not a universal checklist for choosing the “best” Speedmaster.

What Ruby likes about the 145.0022

Dial and markers

Ruby values the flat dial and its tritium markers, as well as the “T Swiss Made T” printing. The “Mustache” nickname refers specifically to the long “S” and long “R” in “Speedmaster.” These are observations about the watch described in the interview; the nickname alone does not establish a watch’s identity or originality.

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Case feel and movement

Ruby says the case feels thinner to him and highlights the caliber 861. The interview presents these as reasons he enjoys his watch; it does not provide a technical measurement of case thickness or a comparative test against other references.

Bracelet configuration

The bracelet on Ruby’s watch is described as a 1171 with 633 end links. That is the configuration of his example, not proof that every 145.0022 left the factory with the same bracelet and end links.

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Reference context: 145.0022, 145.022 and 3590.50

Reference numbers can be confusing when discussing this period. Fratello’s Speedmaster reference archive distinguishes the 145.0022 watch reference from 145.022, which is also used as a case reference. The archive places 3590.50 as the successor reference in 1988. That chronology helps orient the 1985 watch, but does not by itself establish the history or originality of an individual example.

How Ruby found his watch

Ruby says he searched for four years for a watch in mint or near-mint condition, then bought his example from a friend in the watch community. That is his personal account, not evidence of how long another buyer should expect to search or how available the reference is now.

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His advice captures the deliberate approach behind that search: “Even though you have your money ready, you need to do your homework and research. Which is for me part of the joy.” Ruby is the collector interviewed by Robert-Jan Broer in the Fratello article.

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What to check when comparing examples

The interview suggests useful points to investigate, but it is not an authentication guide or a condition report for watches currently offered for sale. Treat these as questions to ask and verify rather than conclusions about originality:

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Ewatchparts 34mm Sapphire Crystal Compatible with Omega Speedmaster Tachymetre Moon 145.0022, 345.0022
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  • Aftermarket Product: This is an aftermarket/generic made to original factory specs for a precise fit.
  • No Logos or Markings: Features a clean design without visible branding, enhancing the aesthetic of your timepiece.
  • Condition: What is the state of the case, dial, markers and hands, and how is “mint” or “near-mint” being defined?
  • Dial and marker details: Does the dial have the lettering, tritium markers and “T Swiss Made T” printing described here? A visual match alone does not prove originality.
  • Reference and movement: Is the watch identified as a 145.0022, and what documentation or inspection supports the stated reference and caliber 861?
  • Case: What does the case look and feel like, and is there reliable information about its condition? Ruby’s impression that his case feels thinner is not a measured specification.
  • Bracelet and end links: Which bracelet and end links are fitted, and are they appropriate to the particular watch? Ruby’s 1171 and 633 pairing should not be assumed for every example.
  • History: Are service records, provenance or a technical inspection available? The interview does not provide serial-number verification, service records or an independent inspection.

Fratello’s interview documents one collector’s experience; it does not establish current prices, production totals, scarcity, or the condition and authenticity of any listing.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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