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Breitling’s Then & Now pop-up museum in Zurich is closed. It ran from August 2024 to May 2025, and the brand’s archived event page gives May 11, 2025 as the closing date. What remains is the record of what was on display. The Sea chapter, covered by Philip Blumer for Fratello Watches on November 30, 2024, centered on three vintage SuperOcean references from 1957, 1964 and 1983. This article looks back at those watches and at the Sea-themed Heritage Talk that went with them.
What the museum was
Breitling described the project as an anniversary exhibition spread over three floors, organized around Air, Land and Sea. It included interactive displays, a mini Chronometrie, a flight simulator, rare vintage watches and a series of Heritage Talks. The brand reports more than 18,000 guests over the August 2024 to May 2025 run.
Watch.swiss, the platform of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH, framed the exhibition as a 140th-anniversary look at the company’s history, starting with Léon Breitling’s workshop in 1884, and listed diving among the brand’s historical fields. That is broad context only. The watch details below come from Blumer’s article, not from Breitling or the FH, and I have not independently verified them. This piece does not claim a personal visit or any hands-on handling of the watches.
The three Sea watches at a glance
| Watch | Year | What Blumer highlights |
|---|---|---|
| SuperOcean ref. 1004 | 1957 | Concave bezel for grip with or without gloves; clear markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12; Milanese mesh bracelet |
| SuperOcean “Slow-Motion” ref. 2005 | 1964 | Chronograph whose minute hand advances only after a full minute; aperture above 6 o’clock showing running, paused or off |
| SuperOcean “Deep Sea” ref. 81190 | 1983 | 1,000 m depth rating; helium-release valve in the case back; removable bezel screws; battery-powered movement; integrated bracelet |
SuperOcean ref. 1004 (1957): grip and legibility
According to Blumer, the concave bezel was meant to be gripped whether or not the wearer had gloves on. He also points to the clear markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 and the Milanese mesh bracelet. He identifies the museum’s example as the watch of Beatrice Breitling, wife of Willy Breitling. The brief for a dive watch is plain here: be readable, and be operable in poor conditions.
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- Stainless Steel case with Black Resin Band
- Black Dial with date window at 3 O'clock
- Luminous markers and hour hands; sweep second hand
- Anti-reverse bezel
- Water-resistant to 200 M (660 feet)
SuperOcean “Slow-Motion” ref. 2005 (1964): an unusual chronograph
Blumer calls this the odd one out. Its minute hand moves only once a full minute has elapsed, rather than creeping continuously. An aperture above 6 o’clock reports whether the chronograph is running, paused or off. He also reports that the white chapter ring and bezel markers influenced the design of a present-day Superocean Automatic. That lineage is his statement, and I haven’t cross-checked it against Breitling’s own account.
SuperOcean “Deep Sea” ref. 81190 (1983): the technical extreme
Blumer reports a 1,000 m depth rating, a helium-release valve built into the case back, and bezel screws that can be removed using the tools included. He also describes a battery-powered movement and an integrated bracelet. All of these are his descriptions as published by Fratello, not manufacturer specifications.
Rank #2
- WATER-RESISTANT: these water-resistant men's dive watches are ISO scuba-approved to depths of 200 meters
- AUTOMATIC: these self-winding, automatic men's watches are powered by your movement, with a power reserve of 41 hours
- STAINLESS STEEL: features a durable 43.8mm stainless steel watch case and bracelet.
- LUMIBRITE DISPLAY: this men's automatic watch features a highly-legible display with LumiBrite hands and markers
- 4R35 CALIBER: equipped with the reliable caliber 4R35 automatic movement, this accurate men's watch keeps precise time
How the three compare
The useful comparison is about purpose, not value. The 1004 is about legibility and grip. The 2005 is an unconventional answer to reading elapsed minutes. The 81190, as described, is about depth capability and the way helium release is handled. Together they sketch a progression from a practical, readable tool watch, through a quirky chronograph, to a specialist deep-diving instrument. I haven’t established current prices, condition, availability or serviceability for any of these references, so this is a history lesson, not a buying guide.
The Sea Heritage Talk
Breitling’s official listing was titled “Into the Blue: Exploring Breitling’s Sea Universe.” It said the discussion covered Breitling’s influence on dive watches and their connection to surfing culture. The listed participants were:
Rank #3
- Stainless steel case 40mm diameter x 14.1mm thick; Exhibition case back; Black dial; Luminous hands.Band Length: 205mm
- NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight 155 grams
- Includes gift box, instructions and 3 year limited manufacturer warranty; Invicta Customer Service can be reached at 1-800-327-7682 for questions (re: Additional links, band replacement, band adjustment, warranty questions, etc.)
- Ben Mondi, host and author of The Breitling Book of Surfing
- Eitan Arrusi, Breitling Dive Watch Specialist
- Roby D’Amico, professional surfer and Breitling ambassador
- Freddie Meadows, professional surfer and Breitling ambassador
The talk was listed for March 25 at 18:30, at Rennweg 14/16, 8001 Zurich. The listing describes the event in institutional terms and I found no verbatim quotes from the speakers, so none are given here. Mondi’s book is the one named piece of further reading tied to the Sea theme. It is not an exhibition catalogue, and I haven’t confirmed its current availability.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What the visit pitch meant at the time
Fratello’s original headline urged readers to visit. That advice has lapsed with the closure, but the Sea chapter still works as a compact overview of how Breitling’s underwater watches moved from grip and clarity in 1957 to depth and helium management by 1983, with surf culture as the brand’s more recent way of telling that story.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Stainless steel case 43mm diameter x 12mm thick; Black dial; Luminous hands and hour markers
- Japanese quartz movement, PC32 Caliber; Assembled in Japan; SR626SW battery included; Watch weight: 170 grams
- Stainless steel band, 185mm L x 22mm W; Band is adjustable by adding/removing links; Fold over safety clasp
- Flame Fusion crystal; Screw down crown; Uni-directional stainless steel bezel with black top bezel ring; 100 meter water resistant: Suitable for recreational surfing, swimming, snorkeling, sailing and water sports. Not suitable for diving
Rank #4
- Iconic Promaster watches with advanced functions designed to venture to the deepest depths.
- 3 Hand, Date
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel
- Luminous Hands and Markers and Mineral Crystal
- Sustainably powered by any light, with our Eco-Drive technology this watch never needs a battery. ISO Certified, 200M Water Resistant and 5 Year Limited Warranty
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
