The Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept, reference 168636-3001, is a 19-piece limited edition: a 42 mm ceramicised-titanium watch with a hand-wound, COSC-certified L.U.C 04.04-L tourbillon movement. It weighs 43.20 g including its strap, according to Chopard. Chopard calls it a “mechanical ‘speed machine'”, and the motorsport theme is built into its architecture and its movement protection rather than applied as decoration. Price was not published in the sources consulted.
Key specifications at a glance
Every figure below is a manufacturer specification from Chopard’s product page for reference 168636-3001 (accessed 2026). These are published specifications, not independent test results.
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Chopard Men's 168513-3001 Mille Miglia Limited Edition Grey Dial Watch | $9,999.00 | Buy on Amazon |
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 168636-3001 |
| Edition | Limited to 19 pieces |
| Case diameter | 42 mm |
| Thickness | 11.15 mm |
| Weight | 43.20 g, including strap |
| Case / dial materials | Titanium case; ceramicised titanium dial |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Strap and buckle | Black fabric strap; titanium pin buckle |
| Water resistance | 50 m |
| Movement | Hand-wound L.U.C 04.04-L |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indication, 60-second tourbillon |
| Power reserve | Approximately 60 hours |
| Frequency | 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) |
| Parts / jewels | 232 parts / 29 jewels |
| Certification | COSC chronometer |
| Price | Not stated in the sources consulted |
How many were made, and where it sits in the Chopard–Zagato story
Production is capped at 19 pieces, a figure given on Chopard’s page and repeated by the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie. The Foundation describes the watch as the third collaboration between Chopard and the Italian coachbuilder Zagato. Chopard itself places it in a line of concept watches and mentions the 2020 Mille Miglia Lab One.
The racing idea: tubular architecture
The Foundation says the design reprises the tubular architecture associated with a racing-car chassis, meant to combine rigidity with lower weight. Chopard states the goal directly: “This meticulous pursuit of perfectly homogeneous materials has one ultimate goal: to reduce weight, echoing the quest for lightness in the world of motor racing.”
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- Automatic movement
- Grey Dial
- Black rubber strap
- Deployant clasp
- Water resistant to 165 feet (50 M): suitable for swimming and showering
The weight figure is the clearest measure of that aim. At 43.20 g with strap, the watch is light for a 42 mm tourbillon, though the sources consulted did not compare it with any other model.
Materials: ceramicised titanium throughout
Chopard says the case, the movement bridges and the mainplate (baseplate) all use ceramicised titanium. The dial is listed in the same material, and the case in titanium. Using one material family for the exterior and the movement structure is the “homogeneous materials” approach Chopard refers to above. The tourbillon carriage is aluminium, and the balance is a Variner type with a Phillips-curve hairspring, per the product description.
The movement: L.U.C 04.04-L
The L.U.C 04.04-L is manual-winding. It shows hours and minutes, small seconds and a power-reserve indicator, and its tourbillon completes a rotation every 60 seconds. Chopard specifies about 60 hours of reserve, a 4 Hz beat and COSC chronometer certification. The movement has 232 parts and 29 jewels.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Shock protection as Chopard describes it
Chopard describes elastomer silent blocks that absorb shocks, along with four lever arms in the caseband that stabilise and protect the calibre. This is the manufacturer’s engineering description. No independent impact or wear test of the system was found, so treat it as a design intent, not a proven rating. The only rating published for the case is 50 m water resistance.
Comparing it with other tourbillon or concept watches
When you set it beside another model, these are the axes that matter, with this watch’s values:
- Size and thickness: 42 mm by 11.15 mm.
- Weight: 43.20 g with strap.
- Materials: titanium case, ceramicised titanium in the dial, bridges and mainplate.
- Winding and complications: hand-wound, 60-second tourbillon, small seconds, power-reserve indicator.
- Reserve and certification: about 60 hours; COSC.
- Water resistance: 50 m.
- Edition size: 19 pieces.
Price and availability would complete the list, but neither could be verified.
Price, availability and strap questions
No price or stock status was found. Contact Chopard or an authorized retailer for pricing, regional allocation, authentication and servicing. The product page names a black fabric strap with a titanium pin buckle. It does not say whether replacement straps are sold separately, so confirm fit with Chopard before buying any strap or part. Specifications may also change on the official page, so check it for the latest listing. Hodinkee’s launch coverage is a secondary source for the debut.
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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