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The Most Soulful Submariner Mod Ever?

Phil Toledano and Johnny Dowell gave a 1990s Rolex Submariner 14060 a nautical identity with an engraved brass dial, sandblasted surfaces, a black diamond pip and skeletonized hands.
Estimate2–3 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Phil Toledano (Mister Enthusiast) and engraver Johnny Dowell (King Nerd) turned a 1990s Rolex Submariner ref. 14060 into a nautical-themed, small-run collaboration. Whether it is the “most soulful” Submariner mod is a matter of taste: its sandblasted, rugged finish makes the concept feel cohesive to some, while its visible changes may feel like too much to others.

What makes this Submariner mod different?

The watch began with an idea about making engraving mean something. Toledano said he admired engraved Rolex cases and backs, but felt that engraving without a concept had no point. He and Dowell instead tied the decoration to the watch’s intended function: an aeronautical theme for the Air-King and a nautical theme for the Submariner.

“The Sub would have a nautical theme, and even though people don’t pay any attention, the material of the dial would connect to the concept as well, with a brass dial like brass fittings on a ship or a diver’s helmet.”

The Submariner’s engraved brass dial is the centerpiece. The other alterations were developed to support its weathered, maritime character rather than leave it looking like a decorative dial dropped into an otherwise untouched watch.

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How the watch was modified

Engraved brass dial

The dial carries nautical engraving, with brass chosen to evoke fittings found aboard a ship or on a diver’s helmet. The material and motif connect the Submariner’s diving purpose to the visual treatment.

Sandblasted exterior

Toledano first tried the dial in a ref. 14060 and felt the smooth case did not suit it. He replaced and sandblasted the bezel, then decided the watch still looked too shiny. The case and bracelet were sandblasted as well, bringing the exterior in line with the dial’s rugged appearance.

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Black diamond and skeletonized hands

The luminous pip at 12 was replaced by a black diamond, and the hands were skeletonized. These details further distinguish the modified watch from the original Submariner design.

Does the design work?

The strongest case for the mod is that its changes reinforce one another. The nautical engraving relates to diving, brass supplies a maritime material cue, and the sandblasted surfaces make the watch feel less polished and more tool-like. The result reads as a designed interpretation, not simply a standard Submariner with an unrelated engraving.

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The trade-off is equally clear: the dial, finish, marker, and hands all move away from the familiar 14060. Readers who value the Submariner’s original look may see that as an unwelcome departure; those who welcome visible authorship may see a coherent object with its own character. The feature presents admiration alongside the possibility that some will find the work sacrilegious; it does not establish a broader consensus. “Soulful” is a judgment, not a measurable property.

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How rare was the collaboration?

In Fratello’s November 23, 2022 feature, Toledano recalled making editions of five or six watches for each model and thought there might have been one Submariner left at the time, while saying he would need to check. That is a qualified recollection from the interview, not a verified production count or an indication of current stock. The article also describes modified Air-Kings with engraved dials, skeletonized hands, and fabric straps.

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The feature does not establish a current price, sales channel, or present-day availability for this Submariner. Its detailed account and Toledano’s quoted explanation are in Thor Svaboe’s Fratello feature.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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