Time+Tide’s April 21, 2024 roundup names seven staff favourites from Geneva Watch Week, including Watches and Wonders and presentations elsewhere around Geneva. It is an editorial selection, not a ranked list or a single-winner verdict: the picks range from a versatile Hermès to highly complicated, precious-metal watches. The specifications, prices and availability below are those reported in the feature at publication, not verified current listings.
What the Time+Tide selection covers
The feature’s scope is broader than the Watches and Wonders fair alone. Its editor describes Geneva Watch Week as including Watches and Wonders, Time to Watches, AHCI and independent brand presentations around Geneva. Each watch is a named writer’s favourite; the article does not apply a shared test or rank the watches against one another. Read the Time+Tide feature.
The team’s favourite watches
Russell: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
Russell chose the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, a high-complication take on TAG Heuer’s square-cased design. Time+Tide lists two references: red CBW2181.FC8322 and blue CBW2182.FC8339. Its feature reports a 41 mm black DLC titanium case, 30 metres of water resistance, sapphire crystal front and back, and automatic calibre TH81-00, developed in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The reported reserve is 65 hours with the chronograph off and 55 hours while it is running. The April 2024 article listed CHF 165,000 and availability from June 2024; neither figure establishes today’s price or stock.
Buffy: Patek Philippe Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts 5160/500R
Buffy’s pick is the 5160/500R, praised in the feature for its ornate design and hand-engraved 18-carat gold case. The article material does not provide a full specification table or a price for this selection, so those details are not stated here.
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- Case size: 30 mm
- Band width: 10 mm
- Fits All Wrists from 6 to 7 Inches
- Metal Bangle with easy read design
D.C.: Hermès Cut Large 36mm
D.C. favoured the steel Hermès Cut Large 36mm for its comparatively restrained look and versatility. The feature reports 100 metres of water resistance, sapphire crystal at the front and caseback, an automatic Hermès H1912 movement and a 50-hour power reserve. Its starting price was listed as €5,400 in the April 2024 article; that is a publication-era figure, not a current quote.
Jamie: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine
Jamie selected reference 5100T/000P-H041 for its platinum details, including the 950-platinum dial, buckle and platinum-braided stitching on the strap. Time+Tide reports a 42.5 mm by 11.7 mm platinum case, manual-winding calibre 3200, 65-hour power reserve and 30 metres of water resistance. The feature describes production as 50 numbered pieces, exclusive to boutiques, and gives the price as POA.
Rank #2
- Case size: 43 mm
- Band width: 18 mm
- Fits All Wrists from 6 to 8 Inches
- Metal Stretch Band
Jamie: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES
Jamie’s other choice was the FB RES. The feature lists a 44 mm case available in several materials and shapes, a manual-winding FB-RES.FC movement, a 50-hour power reserve and 30 metres of water resistance. It states 38 movements and a starting price of CHF 217,000. The article’s wording is “38 movements”; it does not establish that this means 38 finished watches.
Zach: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
Zach chose the DB28xs Purple Rain, reference DB28XSPR, for its purple grade 5 titanium case and compact proportions. Time+Tide reports a 38.7 mm case, 7.4 mm thickness and 44.9–48.7 mm lug-to-lug span. The watch has a manual-winding DB2005 movement with a stated 144-hour, or six-day, power reserve. The April 2024 feature lists 25 pieces and US$99,000; production and price should not be assumed current.
Rank #3
- Silver
- Japan Quartz Movement
- Extremely Light
- Fit Small Wrists
- Stainless Steel Back
Andrew: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
Andrew’s selection pairs a tourbillon with a rotating day-and-night sphere. The feature reports reference IW545901, a 42.4 mm 18-carat Armour Gold case, 60 metres of water resistance and hand-wound IWC calibre 81925 with an 84-hour power reserve. Time+Tide listed A$125,000 and “Now” for availability, meaning at the feature’s April 2024 publication—not a confirmation of current stock.
How to read the picks
The watches are easier to compare by what each offers than by treating “best” as a universal ranking. The Hermès Cut is the selection explicitly praised for a restrained, versatile design; the Monaco, Vacheron Constantin and IWC bring major complications; the De Bethune stands out in the feature for its coloured titanium and six-day reserve. Case dimensions, materials, water resistance, movement type and price vary substantially, so the roundup does not identify one watch as the best choice for every buyer.
Rank #4
- Fits Small Wrists from 5.5 to 6.5 Inches (14-16.5 cm)
- Case Size is about 0.75x0.9 inches (19X24 mm)
- Band Width: 0.3 inch (8 mm)
- Japan Quartz Movement
- Battery Powered (included)
- For everyday versatility: the feature’s praise for the Hermès Cut centres on its relatively restrained design; its reported water resistance is 100 metres.
- For complicated watchmaking: the Monaco combines a split-seconds chronograph with an automatic movement, while Vacheron Constantin’s pick combines a tourbillon and chronograph. The IWC pairs a tourbillon with a day-and-night display.
- For a long stated reserve: the De Bethune’s reported 144 hours is the longest figure among these picks. The Monaco’s reserve varies in the feature depending on whether its chronograph is running.
- For fit and proportions: compare case diameter alongside thickness and lug-to-lug length where those figures are given; diameter alone does not describe how a watch wears.
Prices and availability are historical, not shopping guidance
The prices and availability statements are snapshots from Time+Tide’s April 2024 feature. They do not establish current retail prices, stock, production status or authorized-seller availability. The article gives no price for the Patek Philippe pick and reports POA for the Vacheron Constantin. Check with the manufacturer or an authorized retailer for current information, especially for limited-production models.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Japan Quartz Movement
- Stainless Steel Back
- Stretch Band
- Super Large Case - Easy to Read
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
