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Hands-On: Seiko Presage Craftsmanship SPB403, SPB405 and SPB407

The 2023 Presage Craftsmanship SPB403, SPB405 and SPB407 share core specifications but differ in dial craft, color and strap configuration.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team

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The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship SPB403, SPB405 and SPB407 are 2023 models, not a new 2026 launch. Their main differences are dial craft and strap choice: SPB403J1 has a white enamel dial on a steel bracelet, SPB405J1 a black urushi lacquer dial on a steel bracelet, and boutique-only SPB407J1 a green urushi dial on a brown leather strap. They share the reported 6R55 automatic movement and 100 m water resistance.

What distinguishes the three references?

Reference Dial Strap or bracelet 2023 launch retail price reported by Fratello
SPB403J1 White enamel with dark gray baton-style indices and blue hands Stainless-steel bracelet €1,500
SPB405J1 Black urushi lacquer Stainless-steel bracelet €1,750
SPB407J1 Green urushi lacquer Brown leather strap with folding clasp; described by Fratello as boutique-only €1,800

These are the launch prices reported in 2023, not verified current prices. Fratello said the watches would be available from October 2023; current stock and pricing have not been confirmed. For the original hands-on account and product details, see Fratello Watches’ September 12, 2023 coverage.

Dial craft: enamel versus urushi

SPB403J1: white enamel

Fratello credits Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team with making the SPB403J1’s enamel dial. Its restrained white surface is paired with dark gray baton-style indices and blue hands.

SPB405J1 and SPB407J1: urushi lacquer

The black SPB405J1 and green SPB407J1 use urushi lacquer dials. Fratello credits lacquer master Isshu Tamura and his team with making them. The article places both techniques in Seiko’s longer history of traditional dial craft; that historical framing and the maker attributions here are those reported by Fratello.

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Shared case and movement specifications

Fratello reports these common specifications for the three watches:

  • 40.2 mm stainless-steel case, 48 mm lug-to-lug, and 20 mm lug width
  • Sapphire crystal and exhibition case back
  • Seiko 6R55 automatic movement, with 24 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and a stated 72-hour power reserve
  • Water resistance of 100 m / 10 ATM
  • DiaShield hard coating on the case and, for the bracelet versions, the bracelet

Thickness is reported inconsistently

Fratello’s article says Seiko specified 12.1 mm thickness for the enamel model and 11.6 mm for the lacquer models. The reviewer then says he measured all three at 12.1 mm and suspected a specification error. The available account therefore does not establish that the SPB405J1 or SPB407J1 is thinner; treat the figures as unresolved rather than choosing one as definitive.

Bracelet or leather strap?

The SPB403J1 and SPB405J1 come on a five-row stainless-steel bracelet with a small clasp adjustment, according to Fratello. The SPB407J1 is paired with a brown leather strap and folding clasp. This makes the strap configuration a practical differentiator as well as the dial color: choose between the steel-bracelet setup and the green-dial leather-strap version based on the look and wear you want. Fratello’s author said he preferred the bracelet; that is a personal preference, not a comparative performance finding.

Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Support on Ko-Fi

How might the case wear?

The reported 40.2 mm case and 48 mm lug-to-lug measurement are the useful starting points for estimating wrist presence. In his September 12, 2023 hands-on, Fratello author Robert-Jan Broer wrote, “The 40.2mm case sits nicely on my 18.5cm (~7.3”) wrist.” That is one wearer’s impression on one wrist size, not a guarantee of fit for other wrists. If possible, try the specific configuration on before buying, since the bracelet and leather strap can affect how a watch feels.

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Which Presage Craftsmanship model should you choose?

  • Choose SPB403J1 if you want the white enamel dial with blue hands and a steel bracelet.
  • Choose SPB405J1 if you want a black urushi dial while keeping the steel-bracelet configuration.
  • Choose SPB407J1 if you prefer a green urushi dial and brown leather strap; Fratello described this reference as boutique-only.

The reported core movement, case dimensions and water resistance are shared, so the supplied comparison does not support ranking one reference as mechanically superior. For any purchase, match the exact reference number to the desired dial and strap configuration, and confirm current availability and price with the seller.

How these 2023 watches relate to later Craftsmanship models

A later August 2026 comparison identifies HCC005 enamel and HCC006 urushi as newer ongoing Craftsmanship models, separate from anniversary limited editions. That is limited lineup context, not a substitute for checking current Seiko regional names, specifications, prices or availability. The three SPB references covered here remain the 2023 models discussed in Fratello’s hands-on article.

Quick Recap

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$445.00

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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