The black Chanel J12 Untitled is a 38 mm limited-edition J12 that turns the number 12 into an oversized, deconstructed graphic across its dial and bezel. Chanel released 1,200 black examples and 1,200 white examples in 2018, separately from a set of twelve one-off watches decorated with ceramic marquetry. The black model is reference H5581.
What is the Chanel J12 Untitled?
The J12 began in 2000 as a ceramic watch designed for Chanel by Jacques Helleu. A white version followed in 2003, according to the Fondation Haute Horlogerie. For the 2018 Untitled release, Chanel’s Watchmaking Creative Studio made the numbers 1 through 12 the central graphic idea: numerals appear enlarged and broken apart rather than arranged as conventional hour markers.
The name covers distinct creations, not one single twelve-piece production run. The black and white watches were limited editions of 1,200 each. A separate group of twelve unique watches used ceramic marquetry to create more elaborate numeral designs.
How do the editions differ?
| Version | Reference | Production | Design treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black limited edition | H5581 | 1,200 pieces | Black-on-black graphic treatment across the dial and bezel |
| White limited edition | H5582 | 1,200 pieces | White interpretation of the number 12 motif |
| Unique ceramic-marquetry watches | Not stated in the cited sources | Twelve one-off designs | Individual ceramic-marquetry compositions, distinct from the two limited editions |
The references and production figures are reported by Fondation Haute Horlogerie and the My-WatchSite H5581 catalogue, which also identifies the white H5582 version.
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How does the black J12 Untitled look on the wrist?
In her 2018 review, Sandra Lane described the black model as discreet beside the higher-contrast one-off pieces. Its abstract pattern carries from dial onto bezel, while glossy and matte black surfaces become easier to distinguish as the watch catches light. These are the published reviewer’s visual impressions, not measured finish characteristics. Time+Tide Watches, 8 January 2018.
The reported configuration pairs a black lacquered dial with matte-black decorative treatment, rhodium-plated hands, a black high-tech ceramic bracelet and a steel triple-folding buckle. The 38 mm case combines black high-tech ceramic and steel. Lane described the size as balanced and the bracelet as smooth and fluid; those comments are her on-wrist impressions.
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What are the black model’s specifications?
| Specification | Reported detail |
|---|---|
| Reference | H5581 |
| Case diameter | 38 mm |
| Case material | Black high-tech ceramic and steel |
| Dial | Black lacquer with matte-black decorative treatment; rhodium-plated hands |
| Bracelet and clasp | Black high-tech ceramic bracelet; steel triple-folding buckle |
| Movement | Automatic |
| Power reserve | 42 hours, as reported for the movement by Time+Tide Watches and Fondation Haute Horlogerie |
The variant-specific details come from Time+Tide Watches; the Fondation Haute Horlogerie entry also lists the 42-hour reserve.
Is the J12 Untitled water resistant to 200 metres?
Sources disagree, so the rating should be read with its attribution. Time+Tide Watches’ 2018 variant-specific report gives the limited editions 200 m water resistance and credits the screw-down crown. The My-WatchSite catalogue lists 200 m for both H5581 and H5582. By contrast, Fondation Haute Horlogerie’s general J12 Untitled entry states 50 m. The available sources do not explain the discrepancy, so neither figure should be presented as an uncontested rating.
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Sources: Time+Tide Watches, My-WatchSite H5581 catalogue, and Fondation Haute Horlogerie.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What did the Chanel J12 Untitled cost?
Time+Tide Watches reported an Australian price of $8,100 for the black 38 mm model when its review was published in 2018. My-WatchSite records a historical French list price of €5,100, but does not date that figure. Neither amount is a present-day price or valuation; current availability and market pricing are not established by these sources.
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