The Tool Desk
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Published prices: useful examples, not a market average
These prices come from different providers, service categories, currencies and locations. They should not be treated as directly comparable or as a typical price for every vintage watch.
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| Provider and location | Published price | What the listing means |
|---|---|---|
| Patek Philippe | CHF 900 for manually wound mechanical watches; CHF 1,000 for self-winding mechanical watches | Official maximum public prices excluding taxes. Classic watches over 30 years old are listed as “On request”; complications may have separate prices or also be on request. Patek Philippe service costs |
| Longines US | $380 | Official full-service price for mechanical watches in its “2 or 3 hands + small complications” category. A vintage calibre made before 1990 requires an estimate; additional components are charged separately. Listed prices exclude tax and shipping and may change. Longines US service prices |
| Victor Bonnaire, independent vintage specialist | From $550 for a vintage mechanical movement overhaul; from $1,200 for a vintage chronograph overhaul | Workshop starting prices, not guaranteed totals or industry rates; the final price may depend on inspection and parts. Victor Bonnaire watch repair services |
| Baume & Mercier US | $530 for basic vintage mechanical full service to $1,050 for a chronograph with small complications; restoration from $1,250 | Reference- and age-based categories. Prices are indicative and non-binding; additional parts, handling, freight and refused-estimate charges may be separate. Baume & Mercier US service prices |
| TAG Heuer China, 2026 price list | CNY 5,140 for a vintage Heuer mechanical complete service | Suggested, non-binding price including VAT in China. It is not directly comparable with US-dollar or Swiss-franc prices without accounting for location, service scope and tax treatment. TAG Heuer China service price list |
The contrast between standard prices and “estimate” or “on request” categories is important: an ordinary mechanical-watch price may not cover a vintage calibre. These examples also do not establish a cross-market average.
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Movement type and complexity
A time-only movement, an automatic or manually wound calibre, and a chronograph or calendar movement are not interchangeable service jobs. More complex mechanisms generally have separate service categories; the published schedules above show higher prices for chronographs and complications.
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Age, reference and condition
A maker may route an older calibre or particular reference to an estimate rather than its standard price list. Inspection can also reveal worn or damaged parts that need repair or replacement. Ask how extra components are priced and whether you must approve additional work before it begins.
Work beyond the movement
A movement overhaul does not necessarily include case or bracelet refinishing, polishing or other cosmetic work. Patek Philippe lists case-and-bracelet work separately, while other providers describe additional components or restoration as separate costs. Ask for each item to be identified as included, optional or extra.
Taxes, shipping and estimate fees
Check the total in the service provider’s location and currency. Longines US and Patek Philippe state that their cited public prices exclude taxes; Longines also excludes shipping. Baume & Mercier lists handling, freight and refused-estimate charges separately. Ask whether inspection or declining the quote carries a fee.
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What does a full service usually include?
Provider descriptions commonly include disassembling the movement, inspecting and cleaning components, reassembling and lubricating it, regulating or checking its rate, replacing worn parts as needed, and testing. The exact scope differs by provider. Patek Philippe says its full maintenance covers disassembly, inspection, worn-part replacement, cleaning, reassembly, lubrication, dial and hands adjustment, and complete testing. Its published service-cost page describes these as maximum public prices in CHF excluding taxes.
Before approving work, get the provider to spell out whether the estimate includes parts, gasket work, case or bracelet cleaning, refinishing and any repairs found during inspection. A “full service” label alone does not make those inclusions clear.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How to compare estimates for your watch
- Identify the watch. Provide the brand, exact reference and movement number if known, along with photos and a clear description of its condition and symptoms.
- Ask for a written, watch-specific estimate. Confirm whether the proposal is for a movement overhaul, a partial repair or a restoration, and whether the amount is fixed or may change after inspection.
- Check inclusions and extra charges. Ask how parts are billed, what happens if scarce original components are unavailable, and whether case, bracelet or cosmetic work is optional.
- Confirm the full cost and terms. Ask about tax, shipping, inspection or declined-estimate fees, expected turnaround and the repair warranty.
- Set preservation boundaries before work starts. State whether you want original finishes retained and require approval before polishing or replacing the dial, hands or other appearance-changing parts.
Manufacturer-authorized service and independent vintage specialists are both routes to consider. The relevant comparison is the provider’s experience with the exact watch, access to appropriate parts, stated scope, estimate terms, turnaround, warranty and preservation policy—not an assumption that one route is always cheaper or better.
Vintage-specific cautions
Servicing does not guarantee water resistance
TAG Heuer’s 2026 China service list says water resistance cannot be guaranteed for vintage watches and stopwatches even after an overhaul and gasket replacement. That is the manufacturer’s statement for that service context, not a universal rule for every brand. Ask your provider what testing is performed and what use they consider safe; do not assume a serviced vintage watch is suitable for swimming or immersion.
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Victor Bonnaire advises that “Most vintage mechanical watches benefit from a full overhaul every 5 to 7 years, depending on wear frequency and movement condition.” That is the independent provider’s guidance, not an established universal interval. A watchmaker can assess the condition and advise whether service is needed.
Discuss appearance changes and originality
Polishing and replacing original components can change a vintage watch’s appearance. Tell the watchmaker what you want preserved and get explicit approval requirements in writing before authorizing refinishing, dial or hand replacement, or other irreversible work. Victor Bonnaire says it aims to preserve original case finishes and requires approval for irreversible changes. Victor Bonnaire service details
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
