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Care for an automatic watch according to its exact model: wind or restart it as the manual directs, keep it dry unless its water-resistance rating and condition make water exposure appropriate, clean only approved surfaces and materials, and follow the maker’s service guidance. “Automatic” describes how the movement is wound; it does not mean the watch is waterproof or maintenance-free.
How an automatic watch stays wound
A rotor turns as your wrist moves and winds the mainspring. If the watch sits unworn longer than its power reserve, it will stop. Reserve varies by movement: Patek Philippe lists 38–48 hours for most of its self-winding movements, with exceptions, while CHANEL states 38–70 hours depending on model. Those are maker-specific figures, not a standard for all automatic watches. Check your watch’s manual or model specifications. (Patek Philippe; CHANEL)
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How to restart and wind a stopped watch
Use the restart instructions for your particular movement, and turn the crown gently. Patek Philippe advises a few gentle crown turns for its stopped self-winding watches; TAG Heuer suggests about 30–40 turns for its watches. These different instructions are a reason not to treat either count as universal. Do not force the crown. (Patek Philippe; TAG Heuer)
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When water exposure is appropriate
Check the exact model’s water-resistance marking and manual; never infer water safety from the word “automatic.” Water resistance can decline as seals age or be compromised by an impact. TAG Heuer states that a watch’s water resistance cannot be permanently guaranteed. Before exposure, make sure the crown is in its correct closed or screwed-down position, and do not operate crowns or pushers underwater. (TAG Heuer water-resistance FAQ; Cartier)
Showers, pools, and salt water
TAG Heuer advises against showering in its watches, citing thermal shock, soap, steam, and high water pressure. Follow your own maker’s guidance even if the watch has a water-resistance rating. After saltwater or chlorinated-pool exposure, Cartier and Hamilton recommend rinsing a water-resistant watch with clean fresh water; dry it afterward with a soft cloth. Do not apply this rinse to a watch that is not water-resistant. (TAG Heuer water-resistance FAQ; Cartier; Hamilton)
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When to check water resistance
Testing schedules differ by maker and use. TAG Heuer recommends checks every two years for watches regularly exposed to water; Hamilton recommends annual checks, and Cartier advises regular checks. These are brand-specific recommendations, not one universal interval. Follow your watch’s manual and arrange a check with the maker or an authorized provider if it is regularly exposed to water, has taken an impact, or its seals may be old. (TAG Heuer water-resistance FAQ; Hamilton; Cartier)
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For routine care, wipe the exterior with a soft cloth. Cleaning methods depend on the watch’s water resistance and materials, so consult the manual before using water or soap. TAG Heuer describes using a microfiber cloth or a soft-bristled toothbrush with warm water for gentle external cleaning. Tourneau/Bucherer recommends mild soapy water and a soft toothbrush for a water-resistant metal bracelet. Do not extend either method to a non-water-resistant watch or a delicate finish without the maker’s approval. (TAG Heuer; Tourneau/Bucherer)
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Keep leather straps away from water and other liquids. Patek Philippe also cautions that water and excessive sunlight can age leather prematurely. Follow material-specific care instructions for other straps rather than assuming they can be cleaned like metal. (Cartier; Patek Philippe)
Protect the movement from everyday hazards
- Magnets: Keep the watch away from magnetic sources, which can affect its operation. If it begins running abnormally after exposure, seek professional advice rather than attempting to demagnetize it yourself.
- Impacts and vibration: Avoid shocks and prolonged vibration; an impact can also compromise water resistance.
- Temperature: Avoid extreme temperature changes and very hot environments such as saunas.
- Storage and wear: Avoid prolonged exposure to conditions the maker identifies as harmful, including excessive sunlight for leather straps.
Patek Philippe and Cartier provide these cautions in their care guidance. If the watch runs noticeably fast or slow, Cartier says it may need service before a routine functional check. (Patek Philippe; Cartier)
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How often an automatic watch needs service
There is no single service interval for every automatic watch. Manufacturer recommendations vary: Patek Philippe advises service every eight to ten years for its quartz and mechanical watches; TAG Heuer recommends approximately five to six years; and CHANEL recommends five years for its automatic movements. These are the named makers’ recommendations, not an industry-wide schedule. Use your own model’s guidance and have it assessed by the maker or an authorized service provider. (Patek Philippe; TAG Heuer; CHANEL)
Do not wait for a routine interval if the watch develops a problem. A watch that runs noticeably fast or slow, stops unexpectedly, or has suffered an impact merits professional assessment. The maker can advise whether it needs a functional check, water-resistance test, or movement service.
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