The Tool Desk
Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →On a Seiko Cocktail Time GMT with caliber 4R34, set the hour and minute hands with the crown at the second click, then set the 24-hour hand separately at the first click. The 24-hour hand is manual: it does not independently adjust when you travel. Check the caliber printed on your watch’s case back before using these steps; a collection name alone does not confirm the movement.
Confirm the movement and prepare the crown
Seiko identifies the SSK039J1 Presage Cocktail Time as using caliber 4R34 and having a 24-hour dual-time function. That confirms this procedure for that reference, not every watch described as Cocktail Time GMT. Seiko’s SSK039J1 product page and its caliber 4R34 instruction lookup can help identify the relevant documentation.
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Make sure the watch is running; if it has stopped, wind the mainspring. If the crown screws down, unscrew it before pulling or turning it. After setting, push it back in and screw it down again if applicable.
Set the local time and date
- Set the date to the previous day. Pull the crown to the first click. Turn it counterclockwise until the previous day’s date appears.
- Stop the seconds hand at 12. Wait until the seconds hand reaches 12, then pull the crown to the second click. The seconds hand stops.
- Establish A.M. and set the time. Advance the hands until the date changes; this marks midnight and establishes the A.M. half of the day. Continue advancing to the correct local time.
- Restart the watch. Push the crown in on a time signal.
Seiko’s complete 4R34 instructions for setting the time, 24-hour hand and date cover the same crown positions and sequence.
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Set the 24-hour hand
- Pull the crown to the first click.
- Turn the crown clockwise until the 24-hour hand points to the desired time on the 24-hour scale.
- Push the crown in.
For dual-time use, leave the hour and minute hands showing your local time and set the 24-hour hand to the current 24-hour time in another region. Alternatively, set it to match your local time: because it completes one turn in 24 hours, it can distinguish A.M. from P.M. on the main dial. It need not always show Greenwich time.
Use a rotating 24-hour bezel, if fitted
Some 4R34 models have a rotating bezel marked for 24-hour readings. With the 24-hour hand indicating one reference time, rotating the bezel lets you read another region’s time. Seiko’s 4R34 bezel instructions express the relationship as E = C − D: C is the GMT offset represented by the 24-hour hand, D is the desired region’s offset, and E is the bezel adjustment. Turn the bezel clockwise for a positive result and counterclockwise for a negative result.
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Those instructions include city offsets as reference examples, but time-zone differences and daylight-saving rules change. Check current offsets for the specific regions you are comparing rather than relying on a printed city list.
Avoid date-setting errors
- Do not use the date quick-set from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. Seiko warns that changing it during this interval may prevent the date from advancing properly the following day. If the watch shows a time in that window, first move the hands outside it and confirm the date before using the first-click adjustment.
- Check A.M. versus P.M. If the time is set 12 hours out, the date may change around noon instead of midnight. Advance the hands through the date change to identify midnight before setting the final time.
- Correct short-month dates. The date needs adjustment after February and months with 30 days. For a 30-day month, Seiko’s example is to pull the crown to the first click and turn counterclockwise to move the date to 1.
- Account for date movement when changing time. Advancing the hands across midnight advances the date. Moving the time backward across a day does not move the date backward, so check and correct the date separately if needed.
When running normally, Seiko says the date change occurs around 11:45 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.; it is not necessarily instantaneous at midnight.
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