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The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic ref. 3904 is a substantial, dress-oriented chronograph built around a distinctive 12 o’clock totalizer and IWC’s automatic calibre 89361. The specific IW390404 reviewed here pairs a 42 mm stainless-steel case with a grey dial and black Santoni alligator strap. It was introduced in 2013; IWC revised the 3904 line in 2017.
Which ref. 3904 is this?
Ref. 3904 is a family, not one fixed dial-and-case combination. IW390404 is the stainless-steel, grey-dial version with a black Santoni alligator leather strap, according to IWC’s product specifications. IWC’s 9 May 2017 announcement says the Reference 3904 was first presented in 2013 and describes the 2017 range as a revised edition. That revision included steel models with silver-plated or midnight-blue dials and an 18-carat red-gold version; those details should not be conflated with the grey-dial IW390404.
IWC described the 3904 as “the third Chronograph in the Portugieser family” in its 9 May 2017 pressroom announcement. The family’s brochure positions the Classic as a larger, thicker sibling to ref. 3714; that is family context, not a direct on-wrist comparison.
How large is it, and how will it wear?
IWC lists the IW390404 at 42 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in height. The diameter gives it a broad presence, while the height is a practical consideration for cuffs and for anyone who prefers a flatter watch. Fit still depends on wrist shape and personal preference; the specification alone cannot predict how it will sit on a particular wrist.
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- Inspired by classic American machinery, the Machine watch commands attention with its bold knurled topring. Unmistakably masculine with a bold 44mm case housing a brushed gunmetal dial with textured details, all protected by a mineral crystal face.
- Case & Movement: 44mm case, 22mm band width, scratch resistant mineral crystal, accurate quartz movement with chronograph analog display, imported
- Dial: Round gunmetal stainless steel case with a brushed, textured gray dial.
- Watch Band: Gunmetal durable stainless steel bracelet; links can be removed for a customized fit.
- Water Resistant: Up to 50m (165ft): Wearable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but not diving or snorkeling; 5 ATM.
The crystal is arched-edge sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, and the case back is transparent synthetic sapphire. Monochrome Watches judged the boxed crystal’s added thickness a drawback while also saying it contributes to the watch’s classic appearance; that is the reviewer’s assessment, not an objective consensus. IWC’s stated case height remains 14.4 mm.
What the dial and chronograph do
The design uses applied Arabic numerals, a railway-track chapter ring and feuille-style hands. IWC links these choices to Portugieser design from the 1930s. The chronograph’s hour and minute counters are combined in the totalizer at 12 o’clock, rather than split across separate subdials. IWC’s family brochure says calibre 89361 was designed to record stop times of up to 12 hours on a separate subdial that can be read like the time of day.
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- ALL-DAY DURABILITY: 46mm case, 24mm band width, hardened mineral crystal lens resists scratches, GMT movement with GMT analog display echoing craftsmanship of fine watches, men's watch, imported.
- LARGE DIAL STYLE: Round silver and blue stainless steel case with a blue sunray dial and white accents, an ideal analog watch design inspired by classic big face watches.
- DURABLE STEEL BAND: Silver stainless steel bracelet for men's watch and big face watches, secure fold-over clasp; removable links for customized fit; interchangeable with all 24mm Fossil straps.
- ALL-DAY WATER DEFENSE – Water Resistant up to 100m (330ft): suitable for bathing, swimming or snorkeling, but is not resistant enough to withstand scuba diving; 10 ATM, ideal for those who rotate watches
The movement is self-winding calibre 89361, with a 68-hour power reserve and flyback chronograph function. A flyback lets the wearer reset and restart the chronograph in one continuous operation, rather than stopping, resetting, and starting it as separate steps. IWC also lists date, small hacking seconds and chronograph seconds. The 2017 revision retained the 89361, automatic winding, flyback and 68-hour reserve.
IW390404 specifications
| Specification | IWC listing |
|---|---|
| Case | Stainless steel; 42 mm diameter; 14.4 mm height |
| Dial and strap | Grey dial; black Santoni alligator leather strap |
| Strap and buckle widths | 22 mm strap width; 18 mm buckle width |
| Water resistance | 3 bar |
| Movement | Automatic IWC-manufactured calibre 89361; 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 299 components; 38 jewels |
| Power reserve and chronograph | 68 hours; flyback; chronograph hours, minutes and seconds; combined hour/minute totalizer at 12 o’clock |
| Other listed functions | Date; small hacking seconds |
| Crystal and case back | Arched-edge sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides; transparent synthetic-sapphire case back |
These are IWC’s published specifications for the IW390404. Its 3 bar water-resistance rating is a conservative-use specification, not a basis for treating it as a swimming or diving watch.
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- Citizen Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled Chronograph World Timer; Blue Angels edition with caseback insignia
- Synchronized to Atomic Time Clock for Superior Accuracy, Atomic Timekeeping Technology with Synchronized Time Adjustment Available in 26 Time Zones, 1/20 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes, Perpetual Calendar, 12/24 Hour Time, Power Reserve Indicator, Day/Date
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel
- Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal
- 200 Meters Water Resistant and 5 Year Limited Warranty
Strap fit and replacement
IWC gives the original strap a 22 mm width and the buckle an 18 mm width. Searching for a 22 mm replacement strap is a reasonable starting point, but width does not confirm that a strap will fit the watch’s attachment geometry, match its length requirements or work with the buckle. Check those details against the actual watch before buying.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Men's luxury timepieces with technical advancements and a sporty style
- 1/5 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes, 12/24 Hour Time, Date
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel with Black Patterned Strap
- Luminous Hands and Mineral Crystal
- 100 Meters Water Resistant and 5 Year Limited Warranty
Rank #4
- Men's luxury timepieces with technical advancements and a sporty style
- 1 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes, 12/24 Hour Time, Date
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel Case
- Mineral Crystal
- 100 Meters Water Resistant and 5 Year Limited Warranty
