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Seiko is refreshing its modder-beloved “Fifty Five Fathoms” diver-style watch with two new colorways: the HDB004 Formal White and HDB005 Tweed Green. The green model is the more dramatic release, pairing a sunburst green dial with a matching bezel while retaining the line’s extensive gilt detailing. Both watches were planned for October 2026 availability, with a UK recommended retail price of £340; US pricing had not been announced when the watches were reported.
What the new Seiko Fifty Five Fathoms is
The HDB004 and HDB005 are new references in Seiko’s Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series, built on the platform associated with the revived SNZH-inspired “Fifty Five Fathoms” design. The nickname is not an official Blancpain designation. It came from watch modders who adapted the original Seiko 5 SNZH to resemble a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms more closely.
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Seiko’s SNZH model dates to the 2000s and was discontinued around 2018. It was later replaced by an updated SKX Series version. The new references continue that visual lineage rather than introducing a new case or movement architecture.
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Green dial and bezel
The HDB005’s defining change is its green sunburst dial matched with a green bezel. As the dial catches light, the radial finish changes appearance across the surface, while the bezel keeps the color treatment cohesive.
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- BLUE DIAL: this handsome men’s watch features a striking deep blue dial with luminous dial indicator hands and markers and date calendar to keep you organized
- BLUE & BLACK BEZEL: with a 24-hour bezel and easy-to-read fourth hand, this GMT watch helps you keep time as you travel
- DURABLE UTILITY: these versatile men’s wrist watches feature a 42.5mm stainless steel watch case and bracelet, for a classic, timeless look.
- WATER-RESISTANT: this rugged sports watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters
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Gilt detailing remains central
Both new watches preserve extensive gilt accents. The gold-toned hands, markers and other dial details give the otherwise tool-watch-inspired design a dressier, more decorative character. HDB005 therefore reads as a colorful, vintage-influenced everyday watch rather than a plain black dive instrument.
HDB004 Formal White vs. HDB005 Tweed Green
| Feature | HDB004 Formal White | HDB005 Tweed Green |
|---|---|---|
| Dial | Formal White | Green sunburst |
| Bezel | White-themed colorway | Matching green |
| Styling | Brighter, cleaner and more restrained | More expressive, with stronger color contrast and gilt accents |
| Case, bracelet and clasp | 42.5mm stainless steel case, three-row bracelet and twin-trigger deployant clasp | 42.5mm stainless steel case, three-row bracelet and twin-trigger deployant clasp |
| Movement | Seiko 4R36 automatic with hacking and hand-winding | Seiko 4R36 automatic with hacking and hand-winding |
| Water resistance | 100m | 100m |
| Planned availability | October 2026 | October 2026 |
| UK SRP | £340 | £340 |
| US price | Not announced | Not announced |
The practical specifications are the same, so the choice is primarily about appearance. Formal White should suit buyers wanting a lighter, less assertive palette. Tweed Green offers the more distinctive look and makes the new release easier to spot among conventional black and blue sports watches.
Case, bracelet and movement specifications
- Case: 42.5mm diameter and 14.2mm thick, in stainless steel.
- Crown: Positioned at 4 o’clock.
- Bracelet: Three-row stainless-steel design.
- Clasp: Twin-trigger deployant clasp.
- Water resistance: 100m.
- Calibre: Seiko 4R36 automatic movement with both hacking and hand-winding.
Hacking stops the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out, helping with precise setting. Hand-winding lets the wearer add power directly through the crown, while the automatic system winds as the watch is worn.
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It is more accurate to call the HDB005 a diver-style watch. Its 100m water-resistance rating can be useful for ordinary swimming and surface-water activities when the watch is correctly maintained, but the available specifications do not establish that it is an ISO-certified scuba-diving watch. The report also provides no independent water-resistance testing, timing results or accuracy measurements.
That distinction matters because a dive watch’s suitability depends on more than a depth figure. Certification, case and crown construction, bezel behavior, legibility and servicing condition all affect whether a watch is appropriate for serious underwater use. The HDB005’s appeal is its Seiko 5 styling and automatic movement, not documented professional-diving performance.
Price and availability
Seiko’s reported UK recommended retail price is £340. Gear Patrol’s report converted that figure to approximately $460, but that is an indicative conversion rather than announced US pricing. No US price had been disclosed at the time of reporting.
Seiko planned to make both references available in October 2026. Planned timing is not the same as confirmed retailer stock, so buyers should check authorized Seiko sellers for regional launch dates, inventory and the current local price. Availability and pricing can vary by market.
Who should choose the HDB005?
- Choose HDB005 if you want the most eye-catching version, particularly a green dial-and-bezel combination with gilt accents.
- Choose HDB004 if you prefer a brighter, more neutral colorway that can blend more easily with formal or casual clothing.
- Look elsewhere if you require documented ISO dive-watch certification, independent accuracy data or a smaller case. The 42.5mm diameter and 14.2mm thickness create a substantial wrist presence.
The HDB005 is a color and styling update to an established Seiko 5 platform, not a new technical dive-watch category. Its significance is the combination of the SNZH-derived design, modding-culture history and a vivid green finish at a reported UK price below £350.
