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Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon: A Return Built Around the Derek Pratt Oval

A 75-piece flying-tourbillon wristwatch reimagines Derek Pratt’s Oval Pocket Watch, with a hand-wound constant-force caliber and an official listed price of CHF 368,000 excluding VAT.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team

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The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 is a limited-production, hand-wound tourbillon wristwatch that brings the ideas of Derek Pratt’s Oval Pocket Watch into a new, smaller format. The brand presents it as its “250th Anniversary Watch” and a statement of its return; the UJ-1 adapts the historical concept rather than reproducing the pocket-watch movement unchanged.

What is the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1?

The UJ-1 is a 39.5 mm wristwatch with a one-minute flying tourbillon and a remontoir d’égalité, a constant-force mechanism. Urban Jürgensen describes the model as a reimagining and miniaturization of the Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch. The watch is hand-wound and powered by the in-house caliber UJ-1.

The maker’s official UJ-1 page frames the project this way: “The Anniversary Watch is not about preserving the past. It is about making it part of today.” That is a useful description of the design intent: preserve a horological idea while adapting its execution for a wristwatch.

How does it relate to Derek Pratt’s Oval Pocket Watch?

The connection is architectural and historical, not a claim that the pocket-watch movement has simply been shrunk without changes. The Pratt Oval provided the concept the wristwatch reworks, but the UJ-1 has been adapted for a different format and scale.

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AGELOCER Tourbillon Watches Men, Original Ultra Thin Classic Style, Skeleton Manual Mechanical Watch, Leather Strap Mens Waterproof Dress Watch Gift
  • This tourbillon designed by Swiss designer Etienne Ruffieux with modern architectural aesthetics, features a lightweight, comfortable, free-sprung balance flying tourbillon. It houses an independently developed architectural tourbillon movement adorned with oversized ruby bearings. The design aesthetic is expressed through the interplay of light and shadow created by its extreme skeletonization. The watch has been honored with the IAI Global Design Award for its outstanding original design.
  • Independently developed CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations per hour, 25 ruby bearings. Features high-end finishing including satin brushing and beveled edges, engraved brand logo with gold-stamped. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
  • The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically reserved for luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
  • This tourbillon measures 40mm in diameter and just 9.7mm in thickness, weighing a mere 67 grams. Its meticulously engineered structure and radically skeletonized tourbillon movement eliminate all superfluous metal components, allowing the mechanical artistry of the free-sprung flying tourbillon to shine in its purest form. It is an exquisite, high-end tourbillon watch that is both ultra-thin and supremely comfortable.
  • The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, featuring a double-sided sapphire crystal and an Italian leather strap with hand-stitched detailing for comfortable and durable wear. We offer a three-year worldwide warranty.

In its July 9, 2025 hands-on article, Hodinkee describes changes to the escapement and tourbillon cage. In particular, it reports that the UJ-1 uses a Swiss lever escapement, replacing the detent escapement used in Pratt’s Oval. The caliber is therefore best understood as a modern wristwatch interpretation of the Oval’s ideas, not a one-to-one reproduction.

Is the UJ-1 really the brand’s 250th-anniversary watch?

Urban Jürgensen itself calls the UJ-1 “THE 250TH ANNIVERSARY WATCH” and says it has been keeping time for more than 250 years. The brand traces its origins to 1773; the 2025 relaunch came 252 years after that founding date, rather than exactly 250 years later. SJX’s June 2025 account gives that founding chronology, while Hodinkee’s relaunch coverage notes that 2023 marked the father’s business founding and that the relaunch took longer to develop. “250th anniversary” is thus the brand’s designation for the watch, not an exact count of years between 1773 and its 2025 release.

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IK COLOURING Men's Luxury Skeleton Automatic Mechanical Wrist Watch(Brown)
  • SMALL BUDY, BUT VERSATILE:Quality brand original automatic tourbillon style relojes de hombre(watch); without a battery; calendar,waterproof, moon phase function
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  • WATER RESISTANT TO 30M:Waterproof:In general, withstands splashes or brief immersion in water ,but not suitable for hot water bathing or diving. Please do not press any buttons in the water
  • NO BATTERY NEEDED:Automatic mechanical movement, Powers with the mechanical movement, without a battery. Operate the watch, to wind-up please whirl the button on the clockwise (Don't need to pull out, just in normal condition.) for 15 to 20 complete revolutions
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What are the UJ-1’s specifications?

The dimensions, movement figures and other technical details below are Urban Jürgensen’s published specifications, not independently tested measurements.

Specification Urban Jürgensen UJ-1
Case diameter 39.5 mm
Case thickness 12.2 mm
Case materials 950 platinum or 5N rose gold
Water resistance 3 ATM / 30 m
Movement In-house, hand-wound caliber UJ-1; 30 mm diameter and 8.17 mm height
Complications One-minute flying tourbillon and remontoir d’égalité constant-force mechanism
Power reserve 47 hours
Frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Jewels 32
Escapement and regulation Swiss lever escapement; balance with micrometric timing screws; Phillips terminal curve hairspring
Additional mechanism Geneva stopwork
Production 75 watches total across three references, 25 per reference
Official listed price CHF 368,000 excluding VAT

These figures and the reference configurations are listed on the official UJ-1 product page.

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  • ⌚【Unique Octagonal Design】The front of the octagonal bezel is polished with a polished and brushed process, which is resistant to scratches and presents two different metallic textures. The most classic and legendary aesthetic design has finally conquered the world as the ultimate octagonal case of sporty elegance. The 1.61inch large dial with high quality stainless steel watch band makes the watch more durable. The total length of the watch is 8.26inch.
  • ⌚【Mechanical Movement】NO need to use BATTERY, but AUTOMATICE SELF-WINDING! The back of the watch adopts a back-through design, through the sapphire glass back we can clearly observe the movement beauty of the movement.The watch is equipped with a stainless steel bracelet that is comfortable to wear and has a very elegant posture. The whole is meticulously polished to bring a more refined wearing experience.
  • ⌚【30M Waterproof】Daily life waterproof design which bear daily wash hand, swear,accidental rain or water splash.Please keep it away from swimming and hot water bathing in case consume the watch.(Note! Mechanical watch is different from quartz watch. Insufficient mechanical kinetic energy will cause the watch to stop, please winding it in time.)
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What distinguishes the dial and finishing?

The three listed configurations pair platinum with either a white or gray dial, or 5N rose gold with a white dial. Each has a hand-guilloché linear Grain d’orge pattern on the main dial, with Clous de Paris guilloché on the small-seconds subdial. The hands are flame-blued, and the dial includes a fractional power-reserve indication.

Urban Jürgensen lists hand-executed movement finishing that includes grenage, perlage, domed chamfering, mirror-polished screws and satin-polished wheels. Those details complement the caliber’s technical focus: the tourbillon and constant-force mechanism are central to the watch, but the maker also presents the finishing as part of its craft.

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  • 【Moon Phase & Tourbillon】The moon phase function allows you to track the current phase of the moon. The Tourbillon function is designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch's movement, improving timekeeping precision in high-end mechanical watches. Both of these complications showcase the intricate craftsmanship involved in watchmaking.
  • 【Genuine Leather Belt & Glass Back Display】The comfortable and high-quality leather strap adds a touch of class and durability to complement any attire.The transparent case back allows you to witness the exquisite craftsmanship and intricate inner workings of the watch
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How much does the UJ-1 cost, and is it available?

Urban Jürgensen lists the UJ-1 at CHF 368,000 excluding VAT. That is the maker’s published price, not a verified current transaction price. The published production is 75 watches, divided among three 25-piece references; the cited information does not establish current stock, delivery timing or secondary-market pricing. For current purchasing information, contact the brand directly through its official website.

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OLEVS Men's Skeleton Watch Luxury Dress Black Leather Silver Gold Tourbillon Moon Phase Automatic Mechanical Self-Winding Waterproof Luminous Wrist Watches
  • Mens wrist watch is designed with luxurious skeleton, just like a delicate collection. The moon phase dial matches well with the gold tourbillon. Fashion watches are not only suitable for daily wear but also pleasing to the eye.
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  • The soft black leather strap has been pressed and waxed layer by layer to keep its luster. The watch weighs nearly 2.4oz (68g), creating a more lightweight wearing feeling and excellent comfort for you.
  • 164FT (50M) waterproof function and luminous pointer, splashproof and rainproof. Simple functions can meet your daily wear or outdoor sports.
  • OLEVS Men's Watches: This store offers 60 days free returns and a 2-year product warranty, extended to after Christmas, so there is no need to worry about damaged goods that cannot be returned for a refund. Package includes watch/gift box/free adjustment tool/user guide. If you encounter problems while using the watch, you can contact us through Amazon and a professional after-sales team will provide you with services.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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